Kitchen-exchange

LINK: Lighting design 101

2012-01-16T14:36:00.000-08:00

Here is a link to a great article by Craig DiLouie, Lighting Industry Journalist, in Electrical Contractor:

EVALUATING LIGHT SOURCES

Not so technical that a smart layperson can't understand the concepts, Craig does a great job here of explaining what lighting designers try to accomplish in lighting a room, architectural structure or landscape.

More importantly, he teaches us what those cryptic codes on the new lighting labels mean, and how to use them to make better choices at your lighting supplier store.

Also, some fabulous images, courtesy of Peter Ngai, that illustrate the concepts.

Peggy


Point Source Linear Source Area Source

Craig's description:

Electrical Contractor recently published an article I wrote about a simple methodology for evaluating light sources based on a basic series of questions:

• What is the distribution of the light?

                                          Distribution is measured in candelas (cd).

• How long does the lamp last?

                                          Service life is measured in hours.

• How much light does it produce?

                                           Light output is measured in lumens (Lm).

• How much electric power does the system require?

                                           Power is measured in watts (W).

• How efficient is it compared to others?

                                           Efficacy is measured in lumens per watt (LPW).

• What is the color appearance of the source?

                                           Color tone is measured in kelvins (K).

• How well does the source render colors?

                                           Color rendering is expressed on the color rendering index (CRI).

Q & A About Lighting a Living Room

2011-10-29T16:17:00.000-07:00

Q.

Hi Peggy,

Saw your website and wanted to ask a question if you don't mind. I want to install LED can lights in the ceiling of my living room. Right now there is only lighting from table lamps. Can you direct me to a website that might provide can light spacing/quantity calculations for LED lights? Appreciate the help.

Neil

A.

Hi Neil,

I would like you to examine your reasons for putting LED (or any other) recessed can lights in your living room ceiling. Think first about the purposes of your living room.

Most people use their living rooms for:

1. Entertaining guests

2. As a family room if they have no family room

3. Reading

4. Watching TV and/or listening to music if they have no other entertainment room.

Absolutely none of these tasks is made better by having recessed can lights overhead.

1. Entertaining guests: Everyone looks horrible with dark shadows under their brows, noses and chins. Imagine looking like this to your guests:

BwaHaHAH (Really apropos since it's almost Halloween)

Well ACTUALLY, you would look like this if you put the recessed cans in the floor, but you get my idea.

Much better to create a diffuse light with lamps and wall sconces. If you want to spend money on this, then add cove around the room (Google "indirect lighting") and hide the lights and bounce the light off a light colored ceiling (Use warm-white T8 or T5 fluorescent tubes in two rows on separate switches to get a "high" a "low" setting).

2. As a family room if they have no family room: Same issues as above. If you need some task lighting over a table for game-playing/crafts, add a pendant there.

3. Reading; The best light for reading comes from a table lamp on a side table or a sconce on the wall behind you, or a floor lamp positioned behind you and to one side.

4 . Watching TV and/or listening to music if they have no other entertainment room. Recessed can lights often reflect in the TV screen, making watching more difficult. You have to be very careful how you place can lights in such a room.

Almost all of the suggestions above cost quite a bit less than having a bunch of can lights put in your living room ceiling Neil.

This is why you hire a designer Neil. To help you make choices that are not only more beautiful and functional, but cost-effective as well. I'd appreciate a check for half the difference if you decide to follow my advice

P.S.

We kitchen designers often are forced to use recessed can lights in kitchen ceilings because so many are 8' high, or even less, and surface-mount lights with diffusers are out of fashion these days.

Any time I have a ceiling even 8-1/2' high I always try my best to convince my clients to use a different lighting scheme than recessed cans for the ambient (or general) lighting in the room. If not, then I am looking to see if there is attic space above the kitchen to raise the ceiling and put in cove lighting around the perimeter. Recessed can lights are almost always my very last solution to a lighting conundrum because they make the people in the spaces look so horrible. Functionally, they only work as task lighting in an area where we can't use undercabinet lights or pendants.

P.P.S.

Spacing of recessed ceiling can fixtures depends on a number of variables: Once you decide the fixture and lamp (lightbulb) going into the fixture, then you can contact the fixture manufacturer and tell them your ceiling height and they will give you some spacing suggestions based on the amount of lumens you want to reach the floor. There is no pat formula that works with every fixture and lamp. They are all different.

Happy Halloween!

Peggy

Which Bulb Works Best for the Fixtures Around Your Home?

2011-10-14T19:09:00.000-07:00

The Lumen Coalition has just inaugurated their new web site that answers this question for all of the lighbulbs (lamps) found in a typical home.

Here's the link:

http://lumennow.org/choosing-a-bulb/

Peggy

San Mateo County Energy Upgrade Incentives

2011-09-16T14:08:00.000-07:00

This from Assemblymember Jerry Hill's Newsletter.

Great new incentives for homeowners to upgrade their homes' energy efficiency - The "low hanging fruit" we all should do.

Peggy

Energy Upgrade California

Federal, state and local governments are teaming up with utilities to offer rebates on energy efficiency improvements on your home. San Mateo County homeowners are now eligible to receive up to $8,000 in rebates. https://energyupgradeca.org/county/san_mateo/match_incentive

Advanced Upgrade Matching Incentive:
The County of San Mateo offers a rebate match of up to $4,000 for homeowners on top of utility rebates up to $4,000. Contact a Participating Contractor for a home energy assessment to get started.

Basic Upgrade Matching Incentive:
Double your rebate up to $2,000! The County of San Mateo offers a rebate match of up to $1,000 for homeowners who complete a Basic Upgrade Package that includes air sealing, attic insulation, duct sealing, insulation of hot water pipes, and low-flow shower heads. No energy assessment is required. Contact a Participating Contractor to get started.

Incentives from the County of San Mateo will be allocated on a first come, first serve basis while funding lasts.

Eligible California homeowners can also access up to $25,000 for energy-saving projects like insulation, heating and cooling systems, and solar panels through a partnership with the Department of Energy and the Department of Housing and Urban Development. Click here to learn more.

Volunteer Docents Needed for Sunset Smart Home

2011-09-09T15:33:00.000-07:00

Friend/Client/Designer Valerie Lasker sent me the following today.

If you live in the San Francisco Bay Area this is a great opportunity to see the latest Sunset Smart Home for FREE, and also help a good cause.

Peggy

Sunset Smart Home in Palo Alto: Volunteers Needed

Some of you know that my husband is a volunteer puppy-raiser for Canine Companions for Independence (CCI): http://www.cci.org. This is our latest CCI puppy Jacee, now 4+ months old:

Sunset Magazine has just agreed to donate $2,500 to CCI in return for providing 192(yikes!) volunteer docent shifts at their new Smart Homes open house.

The Smart Homes were designed by Sunset Magazine and will be featured in a future issue. These homes are designed to make life easier and more efficient. Volunteers would get to see them free; the tickets are normally $18/person.

Total 8 volunteers per shift. Two docents will sell tickets at door and one docent on each of three floors (in two adjacent homes) will monitor traffic flow. (Number of people on each floor at one time is restricted by fire marshal. Docents will have "cheat sheets" to answer general questions but there will be vendor reps there to answer technical questions about equipment. Docents do not need to stand during the shift. Each floor is only 500 square feet and each unit is 1500 square feet so a lot of walking is not necessary.

Shifts are Friday, Saturday or Sunday from Oct. 21 to November 13, either 9:30 - 1:30 or 1:30 - 5:30.

If you are willing to docent at one or more shifts, please call the volunteer coordinator Pat Wilcox at info line 408 257-6860. Be sure to say that you are volunteering to help CCI.

Forgive me for this commercial message. But it's for a worthwhile charity and is an interesting design event. Thanks!

Valerie

Q&A - Install Flooring Before or after Cabinet Installation?

2011-08-31T15:02:00.000-07:00

There is a question about installing tile kitchen flooring over at Hometalk, a new and useful web site where you can get your questions about remodeling answered by other homeowners and pros. I would like to answer the question here; where I have more room, and others can benefit from the knowledge.

Here's a link to the question from Robert:

http://www.hometalk.com/activity/54276?se=stf

And my response:

On installing kitchen flooring first, under everything:

A great deal depends on whether you plan to go to the ceiling with your cabinets. If not - No problem...Ah well...a few.

If so, then you could run into problems with an 8', or less, ceiling and manufactured cabinets. Especially if your new flooring is thicker than the old (tile and floating floors always are). Flooring installers also often "level-up" your floors during installation. Or they add underlayment. These unknowns can impact your cabinet installation later on.

Manufactured cabinets come in standard heights. Most manufacturers make a 96" cabinet (such as a pantry or tall oven cabinet) 96" tall. 96"=8' folks. If you have an 8' ceiling the toekick of the cabinet will have to be removed to even stand it up in the room (Some manufacturers will ship the toekick as a separate piece).

In this situation there is no room in the equation for flooring underneath the pantry cabinet. The ceiling will become less than 8' and the pantry cabinet will have to be cut down in height to fit. Many cabinets these days have doors that fully cover the face of the cabinet leaving no room to shave it down on the job (also no room for crown or trim moldings). You CAN cut down the toekick, but too much there looks really odd.

That means cutting it down at the factory. You discover you are boxed in to semi-custom, or custom, manufactured cabinets at 50-100% higher cost than stock, just to get a 94" high pantry. Even if you planned to buy those anyway, most manufacturers charge an upcharge to make a cabinet a special height, so it'll cost more either way.

A solution might be to cut out the flooring where the cabinets will be installed, leaving flooring under the dishwasher, fridge and range. Better to plan ahead and do the flooring AFTER the cabinets are installed. Remember to allow for the necessary height (usually about 34-1/2") of your dishwasher between the finished flooring and the underside front edge of the countertop. Do the same for refrigerator enclosures.

The second issue is an out-of-level floor (very common - especially in older homes):

Cabinets must be installed level and plumb (straight up and down) to have cabinets that are square and doors and drawers that operate properly. That means the installer finds the high point of the existing floor at the walls where base and tall cabinets are to be installed and draws a level line from that point around the room to establish the baseline height of each base and tall cabinet.

In my 28 year career as a kitchen designer in the San Francisco area, I have seen floors out of level as much as 4" from one end of a run of cabinets to the other (any more than that and you'd HAVE to level up the entire house!). A 4" drop in level around a room means the installer has to shim up the cabinets 4" at the low point to bring them up to level with the ones at the high point. This results in a 4"H toekick at the high point and an 8"H toekick at the low point. All this is a heck of a lot easier to hide if he (or she) isn't dealing with a finished floor already in place.

The third issue is floor damage during cabinet installation:

Installing cabinets and appliances is hard work and the installer is often wrestling with big, heavy cabinets and appliances. He/she is also riding herd on helpers, plumbers, electricians, countertop fabricators, and other subs who have no responsibility for your finished floor. The chances are high that it will be damaged and require repair (if possible). Nobody will know who did it. Much better to have a nice dinged up old subfloor to work on until the very end, and then install the new floor, install the baseboards, and do paint touch-up (or even all the painting.

It's harder to compute the thickness of your finished floor while your kitchen is in the planning stages. It takes an experienced designer, or contractor/installer to do it. But the task is well worth the trouble to avoid the above problems. This is one of the many reasons to use an experienced designer and/or contractor/installer.

It's also one of the many reasons why I recommend that my clients make ALL decisions regarding the products and materials that are going into their kitchen BEFORE ordering anything or taking a crowbar to anything. Simply changing your flooring material thickness after the fact can throw a monkeywrench into the best laid plans.

I usually specify in my drawings that the cabinets be set at the finished floor height of the high point. Then I order the cabinets to fit. If I am dealing with stock cabinets on a low-budget project, then I have to be very careful about taking the floor thickness into account so that the cabinets will fit.

Peggy

P.S. In my experience the only people who recommend installing flooring before the cabinets are the floor guys. Makes their job a lot easier;-D

P.P.S. I forgot to mention one thing that makes finishing off the junction between flooring and toekick much cleaner when installing the flooring after cabinets are installed. That is an additional, over-sized, 1/2" thick toekick cover panel that is installed over the flooring. I order it over-sized to cover any shimming done under the cabinets. It can be scribed to the floor and gives a great finished look. Most all cabinet manufacturers offer such material and it is well worth the additional cost.

Learn About Lead-Based Paint Abatement

2011-08-29T16:01:00.000-07:00

The EPA has just released a new RRP Renovate Right consumer pamphlet on how to deal with lead-based paint for owners of pre-1978 homes and buildings.

Well worth a download and read if you plan to remodel.

Peggy

Recall: Martha Stewart Collection Enamel Cast Iron Casseroles

2011-08-18T14:33:00.000-07:00

U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission
Office of Communications
Washington, D.C.

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
August 18, 2011
Release #11-308

Firm's Recall Hotline: (888) 257-5949
CPSC Recall Hotline: (800) 638-2772
CPSC Media Contact: (301) 504-7908

Macy's Recalls Martha Stewart Collection Enamel Cast Iron Casseroles Due to Laceration and Burn Hazard

WASHINGTON, D.C. - The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, in cooperation with the firm named below, today announced a voluntary recall of the following consumer product. Consumers should stop using recalled products immediately unless otherwise instructed. It is illegal to resell or attempt to resell a recalled consumer product.

Name of Product: Martha Stewart Collection(tm) Enamel Cast Iron Casseroles

Units: About 960,000

Importer: Macy's Merchandising Group, New York, N.Y.

Hazard: The enamel coating on the cast iron casseroles can crack or break during use. This can cause the enamel to crack and fly off as a projectile, posing a risk of laceration or burn hazard to the user or bystanders.

Incidents/Injuries: Macy's has received two reports of the enamel cracking and flying off of the casseroles during use. No injuries have been reported.

Description: The recall involves Martha Stewart Collection(tm) Enamel Cast Iron Casseroles in 7 quart, 5.5 quart and 2.75 quart sizes, with exterior enamel finishes in red, cobalt blue, sand, green, blue, white, mustard, brown and teal, with cream colored interior finishes. The casseroles are embossed with Martha Stewart Collection(tm) on the bottom and lid handle.

Sold at: Macy's stores and AAFES, MCX and NEX locations nationwide, and on macys.com between June 2007 and June 2011 for between about $25 and $170.

Manufactured in: China

Remedy: Consumers should immediately stop using the casseroles and return them to any Macy's store for a full refund.

Consumer Contact: For additional information, contact Macy's toll-free at (888) 257-5949 between 10 a.m. and 10 p.m. ET or visit the Macy's website at www.macys.com

To see this recall on CPSC's web site, including pictures of the recalled products, please go to: http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml11/11308.html

Recall: Phillips CFL Recessed Lightbulbs

2011-08-13T19:59:00.000-07:00

-----------NEWS from CPSC-----------
U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission
Office of Information and Public Affairs
4330 East West Highway, Bethesda, MD 20814, www.CPSC.gov
Report an Unsafe Product: http://SaferProducts.gov

********************************************************
FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
August 11, 2011
Release #11-302

Firm's Recall Hotline: (866) 622-6372
CPSC Recall Hotline: (800) 638-2772
CPSC Media Contact: (301) 504-7908

Philips Lighting Recalls EnergySaver and Marathon Compact Fluorescent Dimmable Reflector Flood Lamps Due to Laceration Hazard

WASHINGTON, D.C. - The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, in cooperation with the firm named below, today announced a voluntary recall of the following consumer product. Consumers should stop using recalled products immediately unless otherwise instructed. It is illegal to resell or attempt to resell a recalled consumer product.

Name of Product: EnergySaver a/k/a/Marathon or Marathon Classic Compact Fluorescent Dimmable Reflector lamps

Units: About 1.86 million

Manufacturer: Philips Lighting Company of Somerset, N.J.

Hazard: The glue that attaches the glass outer envelope or globe to the body of the lamp can fail allowing the glass outer envelope to fall and strike persons and objects below, posing a laceration hazard to consumers.

Incidents/Injuries: Philips has received 700 reports of lamps where the glue failed and the glass outer envelope fell, including two reports of minor injury and three reports of minor property damage.

Description: This recall involves Philips EnergySaver, a/k/a Marathon and Marathon Classic Compact Fluorescent dimmable reflector lamps, models R30, R40 and PAR 38 manufactured between March 2007 and May 2010. The following are the model numbers and Universal Product Code (UPC) numbers of the lamps included in this recall:

Product Description | Model Number | UPC
EnergySaver (a/k/a Marathon or Marathon Classic) Dimmable R30 Reflector Flood | EL/A R30 Dim 16w | 46677 13 7076 and 46677 15 0419
EnergySaver (a/k/a Marathon or Marathon Classic) Dimmable R40 Reflector Flood | EL/A R40 Dim 20w | 46677 13 7083 and 46677 15 0426
EnergySaver (a/k/a Marathon or Marathon Classic) Dimmable Par38 Reflector Flood | EL/A Par38 Dim 20w | 46677 14 6443 and 46677 15 0433

Model numbers are printed on the white ceramic area at the base of the lamps. For boxed products, the UPC number is on the bottom of the box. For products in blister cards, the UPC is at the top right corner of the back of the package.

The affected products also have dates codes from March 2007 through May 2010 as follows:

Date Code on Product | Month and Date of Production
C7 to M7 | March to December 2007
A8 to M8 | January to December 2008
A9 to D9 | January to April 2009
0916 to 0953 | April to December 2009
1001 to 1022 January to May 2010

Date codes are located on the lamps themselves, either stamped into the metal gold base of the lamp or in the white ceramic area with other product information.

Sold at: Grocery and home center stores nationwide, online retailers, and professional electrical distributors from March 2007 through July 2011, for between $11 and $24.

Manufactured in: Mexico and Poland.

Remedy: Consumers should immediately stop using the recalled lamps and contact Philips to receive instructions on how to receive a free replacement lamp.

Consumer Contact: For additional information, contact Philips toll-free at (866) 622-6372 between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m. ET Monday through Friday or visit the company's website at www.recall.philips.com/en_us.html

To see this recall on CPSC's web site, including pictures of the recalled products, please go to: http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml11/11302.html

********************************************************

Visit our blog, OnSafety at www.cpsc.gov/onsafety
See our videos on YouTube at http://www.youtube.com/uscpsc
Follow us on Twitter at http://twitter.com/OnSafety
See our photos on Flickr at http://www.flickr.com/photos/uscpsc

The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission is charged with protecting the public from unreasonable risks of injury or death from thousands of types of consumer products under the agency's jurisdiction. The CPSC is committed to protecting consumers and families from products that pose a fire, electrical, chemical, or mechanical hazard or can injure children. The CPSC's work to ensure the safety of consumer products - such as toys, cribs, power tools, cigarette lighters, and household chemicals - contributed significantly to the 30 percent decline in the rate of deaths and injuries associated with consumer products over the past 30 years.

To report a dangerous product or a product-related injury, visit www.saferproducts.gov, or contact CPSC's Hotline at info@cpsc.gov, (800) 638-2772 or CPSC's teletypewriter at (800) 638-8270. To join a CPSC e-mail subscription list, please go to https://www.cpsc.gov/cpsclist.aspx. Consumers can obtain recall and general safety information by logging on to CPSC's Web site at www.cpsc.gov.

-----------------------------

This message is from the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (www.cpsc.gov),
an independent federal regulatory agency, located at 4330 East West
Highway, Bethesda, MD 20814 Toll-free hotline: (800) 638-2772.

Report an Unsafe Product: www.SaferProducts.gov

More From Energy Upgrade California

2011-08-10T16:18:00.000-07:00

Exciting news for San Francisco and San Mateo County residents who might want to do an energy audit and upgrade:

Energy Upgrade California and San Mateo County are combining their rebates to DOUBLE them! WOW! San Francisco's is almost as good!

More counties here.

Peggy

Advanced Upgrade Matching Incentive - San Mateo County Residents Only - Existing Home - Existing Home

Double your rebate up to $8,000! The County of San Mateo offers a rebate match of up to $4,000 for homeowners based on modeled energy reduction through a home energy improvement. Incentives from the County of San Mateo will be allocated on a first come, first serve basis while funding lasts. The matching incentives will range from $1,500 -$4,000 and combined with Advanced Upgrade Package offered by Energy Upgrade CA results in up to $8,000 in rebates and incentives for San Mateo County Homeowners. \ \ Contact a participating contractor for a home energy assessment to get started. \ \ Sponsor: County of San Mateo – County Manager’s Office. \ \ Program Website: www.co.sanmateo.ca.us/energyupgrade

Sponsor: County of San Mateo
Go to program website »

Phone: 1(855) 464-8484

Advanced Upgrade BONUS - San Francisco Residents Only (SFHIP) - Existing Home

Boost your rebate to up to $7,000! San Francisco Home Improvement & Performance offers up to $3,000 in incentives for San Francisco homeowners that achieve 15% modeled energy reduction through a home energy improvement. The standard incentive is now $2,000 (this goes down to $1,000 after August 31st, 2011). Homeowners earning less than 120% of the Area Median Income qualify for an additional $1,000. Combining these incentives with the Advanced Upgrade Package offered by Energy Upgrade CA results in up to $7,000 in rebates and incentives for San Francisco Homeowners. Call a participating contractor for a home assessment. \ To find a SF participating contractor please visit the program website

Sponsor: City & County of San Francisco - Department of the Environment
Go to program website »

Phone: 415-355-3769

More on Buying a Fixer Upper

2011-08-09T15:22:00.000-07:00

I received an email today from Credit Sesame. They wanted me to look at an amusing and enlightening flow chart on their web site called Should You Buy a Fixer-Upper?

Definitely worth a look if you are considering making the leap.

Peggy

Pssst - Wanna Buy a Fixer-Upper?

2011-07-28T19:50:00.000-07:00

I have made some additions and corrections to this post after talking to Paul Weldon of 203kContractors.com. He called me after reading the original and got me up to speed on some changes recently made to the program and some elements of my treatise that were slightly "off".

203kContractors.com is a great site. Their focus is on training contractors to become certified in the program, but they have a great FAQs page that really explains everything in more detail than I have here.

They also have a U.S. map showing the locations and contact information for all the Certified 203(k) Contractors. I'm sure it's a great marketing tool for them. I was astonished to see that there is only ONE certified contractor in the entire Bay Area!

Paul also told me that thirty-two 203(k) Mortgages were written in the Bay Area last month (July 2011). He gave me the following list of the best companies to approach for a 203(k) Mortgage:

Academy Mortgage
Wells Fargo
Prospect Mortgage
Freedom Mortgage
Prime Lending
He said Bank of America does them, but is so slow that not many go through.

He also sent me HUD's MORTGAGEE LETTER 2005-50, with lots more useful information for consumers.

Thanks Paul!

Peggy

In the current real estate market it is really difficult, even with decent credit, to get a loan to buy a property that may be foreclosed and even stripped of its copper pipes and fixtures. Thus houses that could be homes for willing buyers and DIYers are languishing in limbo, waiting for cash buyers with money to spare to do the necessary work.

There is a little-known FHA loan category that can help. It's called a 203(k) Mortgage. Most realtors and lenders don't have the foggiest notion about it. You need to be very prepared. It also works for a refi, where you have as long as you need to prepare. Here's the scoop:

* FHA's 203(k) program applies to fixed-rate or adjustable loans. You negotiate the loan terms with the lender.

* If applying for a Streamline 203(k), you MUST work with a realtor, loan officer and Certified 203(k)Contractor who are familiar with the 203(k) Mortgage. Not doing so jeopardizes the entire complicated process.

* Existing homeowners can refi into a Standard 203(k) Mortgage at 6% or less.

* Hire a HUD consultant to help you get through the process.

* You must work with your local city or county building department and get permits. Realize too that your local building department may make further demands than the 203(k) Mortgage process does.

* You may need to submit plans of your proposed remodel if it is at all complex. That means hiring an architect, or designer, or a contractor with design capabilities, to help develop the plans. Talented DIYers may also be able to put together a package that would qualify.

Architectural Exhibits

The improvements must comply with HUD's Minimum Property Standards (24 CFR 200.926d and/or HUD Handbook 4905.1) and all local codes and ordinances. The homebuyer may decide to employ an architect or a consultant to prepare the proposal. The homebuyer must provide the lender with the appropriate architectural exhibits that clearly show the scope of work to be accomplished. The following list of exhibits are recommended, but may be modified by the local HUD Field Office, and/or your local building department, as required.

A. A Plot Plan of the Site is required only if a new addition is being made to the existing structure. Show the location of the structure(s), walks, drives, streets, and other relevant details. Include finished grade elevations at the property corners and building corners. Show the required flood elevation. San Francisco requires plot plans for any project that changes the exterior of a home in any way.

B. Proposed Interior Plan of the Dwelling. Show where structural or planning changes are contemplated, including an addition to the dwelling. (An existing plan is no longer required.) Though MAY be required by your city/locale.

* The amount of the mortgage is determined by the projected value of the home once repairs and remodeling are completed. That's right. You get the money to buy the house AND remodel it all in one mortgage package or refi!

* The remodeling part of the mortgage is insured by HUD (Housing and Urban Development). This process takes 30-45 days after closing on the house. Here's HUD's page on the entire process: Rehab a Home w/HUD's 203(k)

* There are two 203(k) Mortgage versions:

(1) Streamline 203(k) Mortgage - $0 to $35,000 - This version is limited to whatever is needed to bring the property up to code and obtain a certificate of occupancy. No structural work is allowed. A reserve of 10-20% is not required to be included in this mortgage.

(2) Standard (Full-Version) 203(k) Mortgage - Improvements from $5,000 up to 110% of the appraised value on completion. Plus a 10-20% contingency reserve.

* You need to work with an FHA-approved lender, and it pays to pick a lender that is familiar with the loan.

* To qualify you need to have a good FICO score, have been in your present job for two years, and have enough savings for a 3-1/2% down payment, which will be based not only on the purchase price but also the added remodeling costs, plus a 10-20% contingency reserve.

* Once you get through all the approval process you then seek bids and select a Certified 203(k)Contractor.

Cost estimates must include labor and materials sufficient to complete the work by a contractor. Homebuyers doing their own work cannot eliminate the cost estimate for labor, because if they cannot complete the work there must be sufficient money in the escrow account to get a subcontractor to do the work. The work write-up does not need to reflect the color or specific model numbers of appliances, bathroom fixtures, carpeting, etc., unless they are nonstandard units.

The consultant who prepares the work write-up and cost estimate (or an architect, engineering or home inspection service) needs to inspect the property to assure: (1) there are no rodents, dryrot, termites and other infestation; (2) there are no defects that will affect the health and safety of the occupants; (3) the adequacy of the existing structural, heating, plumbing, electrical and roofing systems; and (4) the upgrading of thermal protection (where necessary).

* The lender will furnish the contract for the contractor - Contractors cannot use their own. The consumer signs the contract with the contractor.

* The property is appraised with the planned improvements in the appraisal. This appraisal will determine the value of the home AFTER the work is completed.

* The lender lends the money, holding the remodeling money in escrow and inspecting the work as it proceeds. The lender doles the money to the contractor in phases.

Caveats:

* The contractor's bid MUST be very accurate. The 203(k) Mortgage amount cannot be increased beyond the built-in 10-20% contingency amount. Anything not covered by the contingency comes out of the homeowner's pocket - if the contractor properly protects himself.

* Get your proper permits for your locale. The local inspectors may come in and make demands not required by lender/HUD inspectors. Ask questions! Be prepared!

All in all I would say it's a sweet deal if you are willing to jump through the hoops and can afford the loan. Where else can you get a 3-1/2% down deal these days?

Peggy

Great New Kitchen Remodel Budget Calculator

2011-07-19T16:33:00.000-07:00

I happened to be browsing today and ran across this Kitchen Budget Calculator from AK Complete Home Renovations in Atlanta, GA.

I just had to link to it to share with you.

It's an Excel Spreadsheet.
All you do is substitute either your home's current value or your total desired budget in one of the GREEN BOXES. Viola! All of the categories that you will be spending money on automatically allocate and you have your budget for each category.

A great way to see why a $60K budget doesn't allow for $25K in cabinets. Of course this calculator is designed to work well in the Atlanta, GA market. It might require a bit of tweaking for other areas of the country. Nonetheless it is a good exercise to perform when you are just starting out in planning your remodel.

Peggy

Vu1 Light Bulb Review

2011-06-27T21:20:00.000-07:00

I mentioned in other posts, here and here, that a new light bulb was coming on the market from Vu1. I have now received and tested these ESL (Electron Stimulated Luminescence) lamps in recessed downlight fixtures in my own kitchen for about two months.

I am delighted to report that these lamps are very nicely made and provide great dimmable light that is very close to incandescent. The light compares very favorably with the other LED, incandescent and CFL lamps in my kitchen. In fact, I like them just as much as the incandescent, which will soon be obsolete and unavailable. The LED (a CREE LR6) and CFL fall short for various reasons, but I keep them around for comparison's sake.

I ordered eight of these lamps at $19.95 each from Vu1. I kept four for myself and passed on the other four to local designers to get their feedback.

Three went to local interior designers who have told me that they are very pleased with their performance and color rendering.

I sent the fourth to the renowned San Francisco lighting designer Randall Whitehead, who is the person who first gave me an inkling about Vu1. Randall mentioned the company last year during a seminar he was presenting. Intrigued I investigated. I have been closely following the company ever since.

Here is Randall's take:

CFL to ESL…introducing the first mercury free fluorescent

After many years of waiting patiently, I am now holding in my hands a compact fluorescent lamp (CFL) that is mercury free. I've been following the development of these lamps by the VU1 Corporation for around three years now. I've been pretty excited about the possibility, but the actual production date kept getting pushed back. Now it is finally available to consumers.
I think that this is a huge step in the right direction.

Note: I keep using the word "lamp", which in the lighting industry means "light bulb", just to be clear.

Officially they are calling it an ESL (electron stimulated luminescence) lamp. I figure that's to separate their products from fluorescents in general. That's A-OK by me. The first type of lamp they have released onto the market is an R30, which is a very popular lamp for recessed fixtures and track fixtures. Even though it's a lamp that I don't use very often in my design, I can see where it makes sense for it to be the first one to be introduced.

This lamp offers 65 watts worth of illumination for 19.5 watts worth of energy usage. The color of the light is very incandescent (2800° Kelvin) which I think is a good thing. The front of the lamp is made of a thick glass, which when screwed into a recessed fixture or track light looks very much like the reflector lamps that we're all used to seeing. From the side it has a plastic collar on it which I feel gives it a little more durability. It says right on the collar mercury free and disposable. It can go right in the trash. Yeah!

The lamp is dimmable as well. I tried it out on a number of dimmers, including the cheapest one I could find and it really seemed to be doing a fine job at dimming. The lamp has a rated light of 11,000 hours which is a 1000 hours more than a standard CFL. I won't really be able to personally verify this for another 10,000 hours or so.

It also shows on the box that it is UL listed. Also a good sign. The one thing I noticed that surprised me is how hot the lamp gets. It warms up like incandescent lamp, much more than I'm used to with the standard CFL's.

If you want to learn more about this lamp go to www.VU1.com. They have a video you can watch. I do believe that this lamp is a valuable addition to the emerging category of earth friendly, energy-efficient light sources.

Randall Whitehead is a nationally recognized lighting designer and author. You can follow him on twitter @RDWlighting and on his blog http://randallwhiteheadslightingsolutions.blogspot.com/

Thank you Randall. I too remain excited about Vu1's potential. I just received notice that they have applied for UL Approval for their new A19 lamp (the old familiar Edison bulb shape), which is due out in August and projected to be $10-12.

In the meantime, if you would like to try the Vu1 R30 lamp in one or more of your existing 6" screw-in type recessed fixtures: go to Destination Lighting and buy one. If you buy three, shipping is free!

Please let me know what you think of them.

Peggy

10/20/11

An update on my testing of Vu1's R30 lamps:

Two, that I placed in 4" recessed cans, burned out after a few months of use.

Please make sure that you place these lightbulbs only in 5-1/2 or 6" recessed fixtures. The 4" fixture does not have enough room around the lightbulb for heat dissipation. My bad. It says so right on the box.

Also, Vu1 has just signed an agreement with a Chinese lighting manufacturer, Huayi Lighting Company Ltd., who produced the lighting for the 2008 Olympics famed "Birdnest Stadium", to produce all of their lightbulbs. They estimate release of the first Chinese-made products in January 2012.

Peggy

Q & A On Recycling Used Cabinets

2011-06-16T15:16:00.000-07:00

Q.

Peggy,

Greetings! I purchased a gorgeous, custom-made kitchen from a home and missed the fact that the cabinets were glued at the fronts, between the different cabinet units, as well as screwed.

How can I get them apart at the fronts without ruining the cabinets?

Can I attach a straight-edge as a guide and run a fine carbide blade in my saw, along the glue seam and cut them apart? I am not worried about the 1/8 or so of an inch that I will lose to the blade-cut.

Should I try a vinegar or some other kind of solvent to try and lessen the grip of the glue? I have seen that, although it does not disolve the glue, it weakens it and the cabinets can be pulled apart.

Heat?

I wanted to re-purpose this fine kitchen, but have run into a snag. I am not sure if you are the right person to ask this question, but I am hoping that you will be able to direct me to someone who has been re-purposing others' kitchens. It is important to me to be as green as I can be.....I have run into a snag.........

Please advise.

Sheri

A.

Hi Sheri,

What a snafu!
You poor kid!
That's a beautiful set of cabinets and certainly worth saving if you can do it.

It's REALLY unusual to see cabinets glued together as you describe.
Normally installers just clamp and screw them together.

Are you certain that they are separate cabinets?
Custom cabinetmakers usually build face-frame type cabinets in "runs" to cut down on face frame material.
You can tell for sure by looking under the wall cabinets to see if they are individual cabinets (you've probably already done that, but just to be sure).

Assuming they are separate cabinets glued together; cutting them apart with a VERY fine blade is possibly workable. Fine blades tend to wander more than heavier ones, so you'll have to be very careful to set up a good jig to keep the saw blade cutting straight. The glue in the seam will also make the blade want to wander to the softer wood on either side.

If you don't get perfectly straight cuts, then the cabinets won't reassemble well, unless you are putting them back exactly the same as they are.

Looks like full-overlay hinges too. So you'd better check the door swing by opening two back to back doors to see how much room there is between them when open, and whether they need all of the room between them to operate freely.

If you can't cut them apart as we have proposed, with straight edges and enough room for the hinges to operate; just cut them apart and build new face frames and finish them and replace them. Face frames are pretty easy to build. Just a matter of matching the wood and stain and finish. They are mostly hidden behind the doors anyway. Or a kindly cabinetmaker could help.

You are probably dealing with a carpenter's wood glue, or "Elmer's". That stuff cures out like stone. I don't know of anything that will soften or remove it myself, especially when it's in a seam. A good paint store is where I would go to ask that question, but I think it's futile.

Hope that helps, and good luck with your cabinet recycling.

Peggy

Q & A On Fluorescent Uplighting

2011-06-12T20:01:00.000-07:00

Q.

Dear Ms Deras:
I have a question about one of the issues you discussed on your web page "http://www.kitchenartworks.com/lighting.htm" about Kitchen Lighting Guidelines.

I came across your web page while doing some research about the use of fluorescent fixtures on top of cabinets. I had planned to place some fluorescent fixtures on top of some cabinets in a combination Kitchen/Dining Area, aiming for an indirect lighting effect.

However, on the instructions that came with these GE light fixtures, is this warning:

"Warning: Risk of Fire: Not intended for "Up-Light" applications where fixture is mounted horizontal with the lens facing up."

That led me to try to find out
(a) why this would be a fire risk, and how serious a risk is it, and
(b) if there is some kind of light I could buy that doesn't carry this warning and "is" safe for this type of installation.

Can you shed any ... um... "light" on these issues? Your website is, so far, the only place I've found that discusses putting lights on top of the cabinets---which seemed to me like a great idea.

Regards,

Phill

A.

Interesting Phill. That's a new one on me. I have been specifying just standard T8 and T5 fluorescent fixtures on top of cabinets for decades. Maybe GE has seen some problems with this, but I certainly haven't. I don't actually buy or specify the fixtures though. The electrician on the job does that. I rely on them to buy the best for the application in a generic product like this.

I would contact GE and ask them what fixtures they recommend for uplighting on top of your cabinets. They may point you to fixtures that are designed to be mounted facing up.

Here's an example from Pegasus Lighting. It can be mounted any which way:

Peggy

Q & A on Recessed Can Lights

2011-06-02T14:06:00.000-07:00

Q.

Hi - I came across your site in trying to find answers about LED recessed lighting and thought I would take the chance and email you, I hope that is OK. (Before wasting your time, I am in New York, and understand that you are in SF, so I'll be blunt - I doubt that you will be making money by answering these questions! I will understand if you do not answer. :-)

I have questions to do with a residential remodel project and thought I would come to the experts - you - rather than relying on all of the conflicting answers I have had from local lighting stores & designers!

I am looking at installing remodel recessed lighting throughout the house and would like to be energy efficient - and use LED not CFL.

it seems there are three solutions...(at least 3 different people have told me three different things...)

(1) use low voltage cans - (approx $50) each with LED bulbs (approx $30 each) - total $80 per unit

(2) use regular cans (approx $40 each) with retrofit LED modules (approx $90 each) - total $130 per unit

(3) use dedicated remodel LED cans with integral bulb - approx $230 each

What is your advice please - I'd hate to spend $80 * 40 ($3200) units and have a bad solution, equally I'd hate to spend $230 * 40 units ($9,200) if there is a cheaper option!
Regards,

Mick

A.

Hi Mick,

You don't specify brands here so I can only speak in generalities.
If I were you (and not knowing anything about code requirements there), I would choose option 2.

My reason is this: Installing regular cans will give you more options down the road.
For instance: You might want to try the new Vu1 R30 lamps instead of LEDs.

There will be a number of new products coming out in the near future that I can not even imagine. Most will be designed to directly replace incandescent 65 watt lamps. If you can stick with that kind of fixture you will more likely be able to try them all.

You can always send me a check if you think my advice is worthwhile Mick. Good work is good work, no matter where it is performed. :-)

NOTE: Here in California we must use GU-24 base sockets, and lamps with a special base to fit them, in remodels and new construction (Existing screw-in base fixtures are grandfathered). CA Title 24 mandates occupancy sensors and/or dimmers and/or high-efﬁcacy lights. I don't think you're there yet in New York.

Peggy

Corning’s “Day of Glass”

2011-05-06T20:10:00.000-07:00

I WANT!

Re: Toxic Materials in Light Bulbs

2011-05-06T19:41:00.000-07:00

Just read an interesting article by Jim Brodrick, of the Department of Energy, pooh-poohing the recent criticism of LED lighting containing hazardous substances. He even defends mercury-containing CFLs. Worth a read if you are concerned.

You can find it here on the LightNOW Blog

Peggy

New Site for Energy-Conscious Californians

2011-04-07T16:55:00.000-07:00

Energy Upgrade California is your one-stop-shop for home improvement projects that lower your energy use, conserve water and natural resources, and make your home healthier and more comfortable.

Use this website to:
Plan your upgrade projects
Locate participating contractors
Find rebates and incentives

Energy Upgrade California’s easy-to-use website is a good place to get started. Just type in a zipcode, and the website compiles the region’s initiatives for you.

Also a great opportunity for contractors to upgrade their skills and get on the Participating Contractor list.

Peggy

2011 Industry Showcase for Northern California May 17th

2011-03-18T18:57:00.000-07:00

These Industry shows are usually only open to designers and such. This one is open to the public, and a good chance to see lots of great products in one place with reps to explain how they function.

Peggy

National Kitchen & Bath Association CA Capital Chapter,
National Kitchen & Bath Association Northern California Chapter
& California Legislative Coalition of Interior Design
present:

2011 Industry Showcase for Northern California

Tuesday, May 17, 2011
Dunsmuir Hellman Historic Estate
2960 Peralta Oaks Court
Oakland, California 94605

Join Us For the 2011 Industry Showcase

Showcase Exhibits 2pm - 6pm
Buffet Dinner 6:30pm
Guest Speaker 7:30pm
Note: Seating is Limited, Registration Ends May 11, 2011

If you are planning to remodel your home or thinking of building new, this is the place to be.
Come and join us for this year's Interior Design - Industry Showcase.

* From 2pm - 6pm, the Exhibit Hall will be showcasing a wide range of manufacturer's displays. Come and learn about the latest innovations in appliances, plumbing, hardware, lighting, flooring, cabinets, countertops, tile and more...Experts will be on hand to answer your questions.
* Guest Speaker Mick De Giulio, world renowned Designer and Author of Kitchen Centric will be the evening presenter.
* This event is supported by the IFDA, IDS, NARI and other industry partners.
* There will be a Silent Auction fundraiser proceeds to support Rebuilding Together.

Design Fees: Flat Rate vs. Hourly?

2011-03-02T19:45:00.000-08:00

I am bringing this question over from a designer's group I moderate.
Seems like it would be of interest to consumers as well as designers.

Q.

I have recently read some marketing advice that said some clients would rather pay a flat set rate for a job than be billed hourly. I think it is very hard to calculate how much time you can spend on any one job because so many unknown things come up.

A.

I agree that clients think they would rather pay a flat rate. It just seems simpler than the unknown.

The problem with a flat rate is that you are going to end up charging most clients MORE than they would have paid hourly, while a few others will pay less. The only way to come up with an average (and thus a flat rate) is to go over your books for a number of years and average everything out.

Hardly anyone is really average, so you will come out OK (based on the past) but THEY will pay more or less, depending upon how much of your time they use. They will also tend to USE more of your time because they don't have to pay any more to get it. So you will have to take this into account and recalculate your flat rate every year...It WILL creep up because your clients have no incentive to economize.

I always tell my clients that the best way to pay me less is for them to be efficient. The more decisive they are, the quicker things go.

That's why contractors used to do the old "white or almond?" schtick. It kept things simple.
Too many choices can be overwhelming for some clients. Lots of clients, in fact. Trouble is: There are just more and more choices these days...and we ARE designers after all. We're all about choice!

I also think that the designer who presents questions requiring decisions to the client in a logical order, without too much at one time, can control the pace of the design project and keep the client from getting overwhelmed.

Thing is: We can never tell in the first interview who is going to be decisive and who is going to be a waffler who takes forever to make up her mind, and then changes it ten times.

Why should the decisive client have to pay for the contribution the waffler makes to the flat rate?

I continue to charge hourly, to be fair to everybody. I also give a range of estimated charges based upon my understanding of the scope of the project and my past experience.

What do YOU think?

Peggy

Accolades (blush)

2011-02-23T15:19:00.000-08:00

I received a very nice email from Martin Holladay, of GreenBuildingAdvisor this morning.

Green Building Advisor is a great site for consumers researching green products and methods. They also have a "Pro" section, that is subscription-based, for contractors and designers.

Peggy,

Our Web site, GreenBuildingAdvisor, has published a review of your blog. It’s here:

http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/green-building-blog/blog-review-kitchen-exchange

Thank YOU Martin!

Also thanks to Scott Gibson who wrote the review.
I'm thrilled!

You guys (and gals) are doing a great job too!

Peggy

Interesting Light Fixture

2011-02-23T14:43:00.000-08:00

The Ataro Hybrid light fixture from Waldman is designed for use in an office setting, but I think it would make a very interesting island light fixture in a contemporary kitchen.

It has LED downlights on the bottom and fluorescent T5s on the top. So it provides both task and ambient illumination. Very energy efficient as well.

Cool!

Peggy

Happy Anniversary Kitchen-Exchange!

2011-02-21T14:23:00.000-08:00

Unbelievable how the time flies!

I started this blog on February 20th 2005, and here we are still at it six years later.

A lot has changed in the intervening years: Mostly as a result of the depression in the construction/remodeling industry caused by our housing market crash. That slow motion train wreck really started in the Fall of 2007, came to crescendo with the stock market disintegration in 2008, and continues with the seemingly never ending parade of housing foreclosures.

2005 was when housing prices and the refinancing and remodeling delirium surrounding them were at their most feverish pitch. Fast forward to today and everyone left in the Industry, and anything connected to housing, is struggling to stay afloat.

Contractors have it bad...really, really bad. Many have gone out of business or retired. The ones who remain are glad to have any sort of work. Kitchen and bath retailers with showrooms have been very hard hit. Most have fairly large overhead. Only those who socked away money for that proverbial rainy day and cut staff have survived.

Many other retailers whose businesses were built around furnishing and decorating homes have gone under, as well as building materials suppliers (those few that were left after the Big Box stores decimated their numbers).

Many businesses that I have known and sent my clients to for decades are now, sadly, gone.

It's a gloomy time. That's for sure! The only bright spot is the ultra high-end. Seems like those folks just never run out of money!

The middle-class continues to struggle with joblessness, under-employment and homes that are too expensive for their reduced incomes. Worse, many have already lost those homes they invested so heavily upon.

About the only thing you can say about the future few years is that we have nowhere to go but up. I think it will be a long and slow haul though. Living within our means does not come easily to Americans.

Good luck everybody. Here's hoping that my seventh year anniversary post is back to ebullient and optimistic.

Peggy

New CalGreen Building Code

2011-01-01T21:00:00.000-08:00

Happy New Year All!

California's new CalGreen Building Code goes into effect today.
Our building code is now the greenest and most stringent in the US.

The new code requires builders and remodelers to install plumbing that cuts indoor water use, divert 50 percent of construction waste from landfills to recycling, use low-pollutant adhesives. It mandates the inspection of energy systems by local officials to ensure that heaters, air conditioners and other mechanical equipment in nonresidential buildings are working efficiently. And it will allow local jurisdictions, such as San Francisco, to retain their stricter existing green building standards, or adopt more stringent versions of the state code if they choose.

Most of the new regulations apply to commercial buildings and schools, hospitals, etc. But some of the new code means VOLUNTARY (until 2012) changes on the residential front as well. Here are the highlights:

SECTION 4.303 INDOOR WATER USE

4.303.1 Twenty percent savings. A schedule of plumbing fixtures and fixture fittings that will reduce the overall use of potable water within the building by at least 20 percent shall be provided. The reduction shall be based on the maximum allowable water use per plumbing fixture and fitting as required by the California Building Standards Code.

The BIG change here is that homeowners will no longer be able to have multiple showerheads installed in a bathroom. This is accomplished by limiting the gallons per minute from all sources to the flow of a typical low-flow showerhead. Thus, there is no limit on the number of fixtures, but the flow would be so low divided among them that you might as well forget about your dream luxury shower.

[CORRECTION 01/03/11] Joanne Cannell called me this morning to correct me on my interpretation here. She called the SF Building Dept and spoke to a plumbing inspector, because she has a current project wherein she has designed a TWO PERSON shower with separate controls for each occupant. The inspector had to check with someone else on this before giving his response, so this may be open to interpretation by each building department. He said separate showerheads on separate controls in a two-person sized shower was OK. I assume this would be OK simply because a tub and shower in the same bathroom are also OK. I also assume that multiple separate controls for multiple showerheads in a single person shower would NOT be OK.

SECTION 4.408 CONSTRUCTION WASTE REDUCTION, DISPOSAL AND RECYCLING

4.408.1 Construction waste reduction of at least 50 percent. Recycle and/or salvage for reuse a minimum of 50 percent of the nonhazardous construction and demolition debris, or meet a local construction and demolition waste management ordinance, whichever is more stringent.

Remodeling contractors and builders are going to have to be a lot more thoughtful about what they do with the "leftovers" from remodeling or building. The days of simply throwing everything into a dumpster are over.

The idea is to re-use as much material as possible (such as 2x4 studs, for instance) instead of throwing it away and bringing in new.

Builders and remodelers should also carefully plan their use of the materials they do buy new to minimize waste as much as possible. I expect as the reduction in waste flowing to landfills kicks in the landfills will also be charging a LOT more to dump construction waste (just a guess).

SECTION 4.504 POLLUTANT CONTROL

4.504.1 Covering of duct openings and protection of mechanical equipment during construction. At the time of rough installation or during storage on the construction site and until final startup of the heating and cooling equipment, all duct and other related air distribution component openings shall be covered with tape, plastic, sheetmetal or other methods acceptable to the enforcing agency to reduce the amount of dust or debris which may collect in the system.

TABLE 4.504.1 ADHESIVE VOC LIMIT1,2

Less Water and Less Exempt Compounds in Grams per Liter

Rules have gotten tighter on VOC (volatile organic compounds) emissions from materials like construction adhesives. This is a good thing, especially for those of us who are sensitive to VOCs. The rules also apply to VOCs used in manufacturing things like plywood and particleboard to make them less toxic to home inhabitants.

SECTION 4.506 INDOOR AIR QUALITY AND EXHAUST

4.506.1 Bathroom exhaust fans. Mechanical exhaust fans which exhaust directly from bathrooms shall comply with the following:

1. Fans shall be ENERGY STAR compliant and be ducted to terminate outside the building.

2. Unless functioning as a component of a whole house ventilation system, fans must be controlled by a humidistat which shall be readily accessible.

Humidistat controls shall be capable of adjustment between a relative humidity range of 50 to 80 percent.

Note: For the purposes of this section, a bathroom is a room which contains a bathtub, shower or tub/shower combination.

A bathroom fan with a humidistat will automatically turn on when it senses a certain level of moisture in the air of the bathroom. It will also continue to run until the moisture is cleared from the room.

There are other elements of the Residential Code that apply, but are less likely to apply to kitchens and baths, so I have left them out. If you go to the Code site to look at all of them you will also notice that there are many sections that are incomplete and "reserved". Obviously CalGreen is expected to grow over time, just like our Title 24 Energy Codes have grown over the 20-odd years since they were first introduced.

We can all be proud to be leading the nation on our way to energy independence and (hopefully, in time) some global cooling for a change.

Peggy

Q & A on Showplace Cabinets

2010-12-09T16:48:00.000-08:00

Q.

Hi Peggy... we are doing a kitchen refresh (keeping the same footprint but replacing the appliances, cabinets and countertops/backsplash)... and plan to replace our current cabinets... we found a local vendor - Kitchen Design Center - see http://www.kitchendesigncenters.net/ ... and we are working w/ them ... they offer semi custom cabinets from the following manufacturers...

"To keep ahead of the market, Kitchen Design Center has expanded it's cabinet lines to include the wonderful cabinets of Showplace Wood Products showplacewood.com, Cardell Cabinetry http://www.cardell.com/ Woodland Cabinetry woodlandcabinetry.com ,Decora decoracabinets.com as well as our full line of Woodharbor Cabinets - RockGlen, Cast Point & Woodharbor woodharbor.com."

They recommended Showplace Wood Products for us and are preparing a proposal "as we speak"... I did some checking on Showplace and got what appears to be some mixed reviews... see http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/bath/msg0110192332481.html... the comments are now somewhat dated so maybe Showplace has improved their product... but the comments gave me some pause for concern...

So I did some more checking and found your blog/post on cabinets... one of the vendors who you like - Wood Harbor - is offered by Kitchen Design Centers although I don 't know if they are more or less expensive than Showplace... or whether or not Showplace is a better choice... apparently they offer lots of options and can produce and almost custom-like "fit"...

We like the folks at Kitchen Design Centers... and they offer some nice "project management" options regarding tear outs/installation of appliances ... and "hawking" the project ... sort of what a general contractor would do for a lot less $...and since we are only doing a refresh and not moving any walls, installing new lights, minimizing any painting or drywall work, no changes to our wood floors, I don't immediately see the benefits of spending thousands of $ for a general contractor if these folks can provide the same services via subcontractors that they work w/ but of course, we would have to purchase cabinets from them to secure these other relatively low-cost services...

But if we aren't getting a good product... or we are paying more for the product to pay for the other services, then maybe we need to rethink this..

So the real question...finally... is what do you know/think of Showplace Wood Products?... and how do they compare to the 3 vendors you "like"?... and should we ask for a second proposal using Wood Harbor instead of Showplace?...

Any advice would be greatly appreciated...Best...Lenny

A.

Hi Lenny,

Congratulations on doing your due diligence before becoming a complainer on GardenWeb!

I do not work with Showplace cabinets at all.
So I can not comment on their quality.
I am familiar with Woodharbor products and highly recommend them as you have seen.

I would ask Kitchen Design Center for some references (3-5) of consumers who purchased a similar kitchen to yours, in Showplace cabinets, RECENTLY.

Then call ALL of them and ask them if you can come out and see their installations.
Ask them if they had any problems such as the ones detailed in the GardenWeb Forums posts.
Ask them if they are satisfied with the services of Kitchen Design Center.
Ask them if everything was delivered on time.
Ask them if anything was missing or damaged.

Look over the installations carefully to see if they meet your standards.
Realize that Kitchen Design Center is NOT likely at all to give you unsatisfied customers' names, so the work is likely to be their best.
If it isn't up to your standards, look elsewhere for your installation work (and perhaps your cabinets as well).

You should always go through this exercise before hiring anyone to do work in your home.
That way you won't be surprised to get substandard work or products.

Installation of cabinetry is pretty subjective.
Usually you get what you pay for.
It takes time and talent to do it well.
The best cabinet installers are usually finish carpenters, the kind who do crown mouldings and wainscoting and such.

Then there is what the installers have to work with - the cabinets.
If they are not manufactured square and true, or warped wood has been used, or there is shipping damage, or the wood is not high enough quality, or, or...
If the cabinets you are looking at (Showplace) aren't up to your standards, you might need to look at something a little higher priced.
Your dealer probably asked you about your budget and recommended accordingly.

Then there is attitude.
Some installers can make almost anything look great, with nary a complaint.
Others expect the manufacturer to almost do their work, and whine at every inconvenience.
Sometimes it's hard for a homeowner to know whether their installer is a whiner or whether the problems with the cabinets are real.
Usually the homeowner takes the installer's word for it because that's who is in their house.

Then there is the dealer:
Most dealers are hard-working and try their best to do a good job.
The fact is that ordering a set of cabinets for your kitchen involves a bunch of decisions, any of which can be forgotten or overlooked and cause problems when it comes time to install them.
Some dealers are, at best, charlatans selling snake oil.
Obviously you want to avoid them.
But you do only one or two kitchens in a lifetime.
That's why it pays to ask for references and actually follow through.
Because you, as a novice, have no other way to judge what you are getting.

Good luck with your project and please let us all know how it goes.

Peggy

RECALL: Child Cabinet Locks

2010-12-02T15:37:00.000-08:00

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
December 2, 2010
Release #11-056

Firm's Recall Hotline: (866) 725-4407
CPSC Recall Hotline: (800) 638-2772
CPSC Media Contact: (301) 504-7908

The First Years® Recalls American Red Cross® Cabinet Swing Locks; Latches Can Fail to Prevent Access by Children

WASHINGTON, D.C. - The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, in cooperation with the firm named below, today announced a voluntary recall of the following consumer product. Consumers should stop using recalled products immediately unless otherwise instructed. It is illegal to resell or attempt to resell a recalled consumer product.
Name of Product: The First Years American Red Cross Cabinet Swing Locks
Units: About 41,300
Importer: Learning Curve Brands Inc. d/b/a The First Years, of Oak Brook, Ill.
Hazard: The installed latches can break and children could gain access to contents of a cabinet, posing the risk of exposure to hazardous items.
Incidents/Injuries: The First Years has received seven reports of latches breaking. No injuries have been reported.
Description: This recall involves The First Years American Red Cross cabinet swing locks with item number Y7181. The latches are mounted on cabinets or drawers to help prevent young children from gaining access and were sold two per blister card. An America Red Cross logo and "cabinet swing lock" is printed on the package. "American Red Cross" is molded onto the front of the lock. A date code is printed on the bottom of the back of the package and on the back side of each latch just above the connection point.
Sold at: Toys R Us, Babies R Us and other retail stores nationwide and on the Internet from September 2008 through September 2010 for about $4 per pair.
Manufactured in: China
Remedy: Consumers should immediately remove the latches from cabinets, record the date code on the back of each latch and contact The First Years to obtain a $5 coupon toward the purchase of another Learning Curve product. When removing the latches, consumers should take special care to store hazardous items out of reach of children.
Consumer Contact: For additional information, contact The First Years toll-free at (866) 725-4407 between 8 a.m. and 5 p.m. CT Monday through Friday, or visit the firm's website at www.recalls.thefirstyears.com

VP Biden unveils plan to score homes for energy efficiency

2010-12-02T11:41:00.000-08:00

Just read an article in USA Today's GreenHouse blog about a coming program to test and improve energy efficiency in American homes:

"With the new Home Energy Score, consumers will find out how their home compares with others and how much money they could save by adding insulation, sealing air leaks or doing other upgrades. Nine U.S. communities will test the score, similar to a miles-per-gallon label for cars, before it's rolled out nationally next summer."

"Consumers will be able to seek up to $25,000 in federally insured, PowerSaver loans at or below market rates. The U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development expects up to 24,000 households will qualify for loans averaging $12,500 during the two-year pilot program, which starts early next year."

I'm hopeful that the SF Bay Area will be one of the nine U.S. communities in the pilot starting next year. I received the news from Recurve, of San Francisco. So maybe we will be selected.

Peggy

Q & A on Kitchen on Its Last Legs

2010-11-28T21:09:00.000-08:00

Q.

Hello Peggy

I saw your invitation to ask questions on the web so here goes.

We have done things backwards when it comes to kitchen renovating. Our 1989 2500 sq. ft. home had sheet vinyl we replaced in 2002, and in 2004 we upgraded the white formica with dark green silestone and new knobs and pulls to the builder grade oak recessed panel cabinets I spruced up with sand paper and polyurethane. We also had a two toned green and beige tile backsplash installed with stainless appliances. I now hate the cabinets and they are showing their age. My husband is handy and has made a few pull out storage drawers in some cabinets to keep me happy.

We are locked in by the floor plan since the new wood floors butt up against the cabinets, as well as the Silestone.

Our compromise is to paint the frames of the cabinets and purchase new doors in a off white/beige glazed finish.

We are also locked in to the floor plan as we do not want added square footage and we have an antique oak table and hutch in the adjoining eat in part of the kitchen. There is an adjoining family I hope to tie in with the same paint color.

Any suggestions on how to best handle this remodel, particularly the paint on the cabinet frames? I know I need to use a filler for the pores in the oak if I want it to be smooth. The slider, computer armoire are also staying. Your suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I want under cabinet lighting, a few pendants over the peninsula and one over the sink. A few cabinets in their entirety can be replaced like the upper ones to the right of the sink and maybe by the fridge.

Francine

A.

Well Francine, this is a tall order. The images you sent show a really cheap set of kitchen cabinets. Your instincts are right: to paint them. But your layout is really outdated for living in the 21st Century.

We discovered long ago that a compact U-shaped kitchen was great for a single cook with no helpers - Very efficient in its day, but it doesn't work at all for the way we live and cook today.

My advice to you is this: Because your layout is outdated, you will not long be content with painting your cabinets to save your countertops and flooring investments.

Your hardwood floors can easily be patched and nobody will ever know the difference between old and new. You can even reuse your Silestone countertops if the color is still available. If not, at least part of your countertops could be redone with the old Silestone. It can be seamed together in a new configuration by any good solid surface fabricator.

I suggest you reconfigure your new kitchen in an L shape with an island. Choose a new counter surface for the island that complements your existing Silestone and you're all set. With a little hardwood patching, some good countertop fabrication, nice new quality made cabinets in your choice of finish, and your new lighting; I'm very sure that you will have a kitchen that will last you as long as you're in your home and give you years of joy.

Heck. You already have your knobs and pulls. And those old cabinets would go great in the garage or basement. And, lucky you, the craftspeople you need to do this work are just panting for it (unlike a few years ago).

If your husband is truly handy, he can even do the installation and save big bucks.

Think about it.

Peggy

Novice Kitchen Remodeling Mistakes

2010-11-14T19:04:00.000-08:00

I recently received an email from the editor of the blog for Purcell Murray, a distributor of premium kitchen and bath products, located here in the San Francisco Bay Area.

She wanted me to answer the following question for their blog, where other area designers commented as well:

I'd love to get just a few bullet points from you. What are things that people tend to overlook or underestimate when they're planning a kitchen remodel? For example, choosing trends over practicality, choosing to DIY when they should be hiring qualified professionals, etc.

Here was my response:

Peggy

Sufficient planning time:
Many consumers think planning a kitchen is no more complex than refurnishing a family room. Big mistake if you have a deadline like a baby on the way.
Allocate at least three to six months to plan your kitchen and get everything ordered before your start date.

Electrical:
Consumers planning their own kitchen remodel, without professional help, are usually clueless when it comes to the electrical and lighting requirements for a remodelled kitchen today. If they don't have upgraded service, they often must sink thousands of dollars into new service to handle the additional load. That means a new or auxiliary electrical box with enough free circuits to provide a dedicated circuit for each appliance (yes. that includes the microwave and disposal), two plug circuits and lighting circuits. Typically this is seven to nine free circuits dedicated to the new kitchen alone.

Lighting:
The requirements of California's Title 24 Energy Code mean that at least 1/2 of the wattage dedicated to kitchen lighting must be high efficacy. That means fluorescent or LED lighting. Incandescent and halogen lighting are now dinosaurs and on their way to extinction. It is difficult for us pros to keep up with the constantly changing codes and new products in lighting these days. Consumers are totally in the dark.

Adequate negative space:
Everyone seems to want an island these days, and with good reason. Islands are convenient and separate the cook or cooks from traffic passing by the work areas. They also make great places for bar stools and a quick snack. An island really needs 42-48" aisles around it to be functional and let people pass behind those who are working at the island and at counters across from the island. It's also the right amount of space to be able to open appliance doors without endangering anyone walking by, or blocking the passage. With islands in high demand, we designers are often pressed to fit one into a room that really doesn't have enough space. An expert can squeeze things down to 36" aisles if appliances are placed so they won't interfere with each other when open. Imagine not being able to get into the fridge on Thanksgiving because your husband is removing the turkey from the oven.

Recognize when you are in over your head:
Many kitchens are easy for their owners to plan. Plenty of space for adequate counters, storage, passageways and your chosen appliances. It's really hard to make a huge mistake going to a Big Box store with your floorplan with a kitchen like that. Other kitchens are not so easy: too many doors and traffic patterns going through. Not enough room for counterspace and storage, let alone your desired appliances. This is the moment when consumers need to realize that a professional can wring far more out of an inadequate and antiquated space than they themselves or any novice can do. They will also be delighted to find that such professional help is not really unaffordable at all. In fact, pros save their clients far more than they cost.

Shopping for the contractor with the lowest bid:
Low-balling contractors often "find" problems that reputable contractors will call out up front. Better to find a contractor you trust and negotiate to bring your project in at a price you can afford. Contractors are not the enemy. They are glad to work with homeowners as a team on the project if given half a chance.
Because a remodeling contractor does this kind of work day in and day out they can very often suggest ways to save money by doing things a little differently. This is why it pays to select your contractor early, and keep him/her involved in the process while you are planning your kitchen remodel. If the contractor you want comes in with a price you can't afford, ask what can be changed to bring it within your budget. Better to create a team than work with a low-baller and be surprised by change-orders that make your project unaffordable while you are doing it.

Pssst. Restoration Hardware 20% Off Sale!

2010-11-12T11:36:00.000-08:00

Just received this notice from Restoration Hardware.

Great deals!

Use Code FFP2010 on their web site.

Peggy

Q & A On Achieving a Budget Kitchen Remodel

2010-11-10T19:41:00.000-08:00

Q.

Hello Peggy,

I discovered your helpful website through a Google search. My husband and I are in the process of purchasing our first home in Diamond Heights, San Francisco. The house was built in the early 70's and currently has an outdated kitchen with tile counters (with some cracks) and painted white cabinets.

We are hoping to remodel but are pretty clueless about the whole process and feeling overwhelmed by it. It looks like you work on pretty upscale kitchens, so not sure if we'd be the right type of clients for you.

We think our max budget would be $25K for everything (cabinets, counters, appliances, etc). We are looking for help on how to lay out the workspace, who to use as a contractor, where to source our materials and appliances, etc.

The layout/space seems to be functional as it is now, but we would like a professional to give us options, like adding an island, pantry space, etc. We have considered Ikea/Home Depot, since they are the budget option, but have read bad reviews.

Thank you for any insight you may have!

Maya

A.

Thanks for your question Maya.

Interesting that you would think that I do only high-end projects. For decades my clientele has been the middle class (Though I must admit, the middle class went kind of hog wild in the last decade or so. Remodeling on their equity).

Things are quite different nowadays. Many people like you are longing to have a new kitchen on a shoestring budget. And $25K is really a shoestring budget if you need everything new AND plan to hire a contractor to do all the work.

We did lots of $25K kitchens back in the '80s with no difficulty, so let's break it down and see what you would get for your $25K investment:

Appliances: $3,000.
Cabinets (Oak): $9,000.
Countertops (Laminate): $1,000.
Flooring Vinyl): $2,000.
Electrical & Lighting: $1,000. (This can turn into a big budget item)
Sink & Faucet: $300.
Plumbing: 0. (You like your layout)
Contractor: $9,000. (If you can find one who will do it for that)

You are very fortunate that your layout seems to be functional. Many homeowners in the Bay Area are not so lucky.

You notice there's nothing in there for paying a designer. Typically, if I consult with you and then draw up your plans, you will pay me somewhere between $3-5K. On a higher-budget project the client can expect me to save them as much or more than they pay me. When a budget is pared to the bone, as yours is, there is no fat to cut (and no room for a designer on the payroll).

Back when my (then) husband and I bought our first house, in 1969 ($10,000 with $100 per month payments - ha-ha - You can imagine how bad that house was), I too wanted to remodel my kitchen (and bathroom, put in a patio, landscape, re-side the garage, finish the basement, etc, etc.).

Because we couldn't afford the cost of hiring Sears to do the remodel, we learned to do-it-ourselves. Everything took a lot longer, but we did a great job. If I remember correctly, the kitchen cost us about $6K. I built all the cabinets and bought everything on sale; and we did all our own work. We ended up with a pretty high-end looking kitchen, and I was launched on a career with that kitchen remodel.

That was then and this is now. So I ask you: Is this your "forever house"? If so, I think you will want to invest more in your new kitchen than $25K.

Most of my middle class clients are cooks. So they want high-end appliances that will serve their needs and last a long time. They want cabinetry that won't fall apart in a few years and require replacing. They want hardwood flooring and stone or solid surface countertops. They want beautiful lighting, not a fluorescent box on the ceiling.

If it's not your forever house you still may find yourselves living there for ten years or so (time flies). It would be a shame to see your original investment wasted and in need of replacement by the time you want to move up. Or worse yet: sooner.

I suggest that you may want to save up for a few years and do your kitchen right. Either that or become do-it-yourselfers.

A more realistic budget to create a kitchen that will last is around $60K:

Appliances: $10,000.
Cabinets: $18,000.
Countertops: $5,000.
Flooring: $4,000.
Electrical & Lighting: $2,500.
Sink & Faucet: $1,500.
Plumbing: 0.
Contractor: $18,000.
Designer: $3-5,000.

Please let us know how it goes Maya.

Peggy

11/12/10

Here's Maya's response to my post.

Good for you Maya!

Hi Peggy,

Thanks so much for taking the time to put together this thoughtful response. It certainly gives us a lot to think about.

This house may not be our "forever" house, but we plan to be there for at least the next 7 to 10 years and gradually work on the house ourselves to make it the way we want. We are lucky to have a functional layout and also the hardwood floors already installed.

For now we may just paint the cabinet interiors and get a new fridge and dishwasher. We'll have a better idea of our budget early in the new year.

Thanks for your advice.

Maya

Designing with Fluorescent Lights

2010-11-03T19:31:00.000-07:00

Just read an interesting article from the London Telegraph.

Apparently all of Europe will begin tomorrow with its plan to ban incandescent lightbulbs:

"From tomorrow a Europe-wide ban on traditional incandescent bulbs will begin to be rolled out, with a ban on 100W bulbs and old-style frosted or pearled bulbs."

The article details problems with the light level of compact fluorescent lightbulbs (CFLs) labeled as equivalent to the incandescents they are about to replace in European homes. Testing reveals that even the better CFLs achieve only about 2/3 the light intensity of 60W incandescents. That means Europeans are going to need to buy 100W equivalent CFLs to get similar light output they got from their 60W incandescent lightbulbs. Obviously, if they want 100W of light intensity to replace a 100W bulb, they will have to buy 150W equivalent CFLs.

I have been specifying 100% fluorescent lighting in kitchens for many years now (as long as my clients would go along, and most have). I experimented early-on with the amount of light I needed to achieve to get adequate illumination of the space, with the cooperation of some treasured contractors who put up with my futzing.

Because I try very hard to design fluorescent lighting schemes that bounce the light from hidden coves and the tops of cabinets, I early-on realized that the intensity needed to be higher to achieve the desired results. Direct lighting is automatically more intense than indirect lighting. Also, hiding the fixtures, as I prefer to do, means there are only so many places in most kitchens that offer the opportunity to hide a light. And sometimes not enough.

I found if I planned a double row of T12 (the big ones) tubes on top of cabinets in a typical kitchen layout, that would be enough. Later we were able to swap for T8s and then T5s. I put each row on a separate switch, so there is a "high" and "low" for those lights. This scheme provides a pleasant "fill light" in the room. It's called "general lighting" by lighting designers. The great thing about this kind of bounced light is that it picks up the color of the ceiling as it bounces. Consequently we don't have to deal with yucky fluorescent light color. Of course I do also specify that the fluorescent tubes be the best color my clients can afford, or at least minimum warm white.

Then I turn my attention to "task lighting". This is the light that must fall on countertops, where the work of creating a meal happens. Where there are upper cabinets, I use undercabinet lights. In the early days they were Alcko "little inch lights". Fluorescent undercabinet lights that fit neatly in the recess at the bottom of wall cabinets, or behind a light baffle trim. Nowadays I also consider LED undercabinet lights if the budget can tolerate the strain.

In areas where there are no upper cabinets, such as over the sink or an island, I use recessed can lights to light the work surfaces. Early-on they were incandescent downlights, then CFLs. Now I like to use LED downlights like the CREE LR6, which has great color rendering (so tomatoes look red and my skin looks pink).

Beyond general and task lighting, for those kitchens where we are trying to make a statement, I introduce some "accent lighting". Perhaps highlighting a painting or hood with some special sparkle. Others would use halogen here, but I have avoided halogen because of the danger of fire associated with the heat generated by halogen. I prefer LED lighting here as well, and (thank goodness) the inventors have recently obliged with sparkly LED that is very focused. I have also used backlighting behind glass block, edge lighting on a glass or lucite panel, all kinds of playful ways to introduce light as a design element.

So, lighting doesn't have to be just utilitarian...A bare bulb or fluorescent box on the ceiling. Lighting can be a way to make a mundane space really special, a special space spectacular. All it takes is a little extra attention. It's called "design".

Peggy

GO GIANTS!

2010-10-27T15:07:00.000-07:00

We in the San Francisco Bay Area are SOOOO excited about our Giants being in the World Series.

The first game starts at 4:57PM (PDT). Don't call me.

Our team this year is not the same team that started the year. So many changes. So many new (to us) players who were cast off from other teams and thought they would be watching the rest of their season from the couch.

It's quite remarkable that they were able to pull off an end of the season run to the top in the rankings and beat what we all thought were better teams in the playoffs.

Many, many fans have been cheering for the Giants ever since they came to San Francisco from New York back in the '50's. That includes me. My Mom was a SF Seals fan before the Giants came to town. We often went to (tiny) Seals Stadium, at 16th and Brannon, to watch both teams play, before Candlestick park was built.

After Candlestick was built, we went there. This was the era of Mays and McCovey, Cepeda and Marichal. Now the Giants have a gorgeous new stadium in Pac Bell Park.

The one thing missing all these years has been a World Series win. We've come close. Gotten into the Series, only to lose, in 1962, 1989 (the Earthquake) and 2002 (Barry Bonds).

Now here we are again; hoping against hope that this ragtag bunch of castoffs and rookies can pull off a miracle.

We're the underdogs, but that's the way we like it.

Go, GO Giants!
and Fear the Beard!

Peggy

ADDENDUM 11/1/10:

I just watched the Giants clinch the World Series title in 5.
What a run!
All of San Francisco is ecstatic!

Sulfer-Tainted Drywall - Who Knew?

2010-10-26T12:33:00.000-07:00

I just finished reading a lengthy expose on Pro-Publica, China Plays Tug-of-War With U.S. Inspectors Over Drywall, about Chinese and American drywall, tainted with sulfer, that causes extensive corrosion of metal components in walls, such as wiring; and also makes the occupants sick.

As a longtime sufferer of sulfer sensitivity, all I can say is this:

It looks like it is advisable to have the drywall that is delivered to your job site tested before it is installed in your home. At the very least somebody needs to give it a "smell test" to see if there is the tell-tale scent of rotten eggs.

There is no other way to protect yourselves from the fate of those people who tell their stories about contaminated drywall in their homes in the Comments below the article.

Peggy

Addendum:

There are a lot more stories on ProPublica about the tainted drywall. Go to http://www.propublica.org/topic/tainted-drywall to read about the Lowe's settlement, now worth up to $100K to homeowners, and much more.

UPDATE 12/14/10

Here is an update from ProPublica on this problem:

http://www.propublica.org/article/federal-probe-of-chinese-drywall-falls-short

Lead Paint Testing and Mitigation in Pre-1978 Homes

2010-10-09T11:45:00.000-07:00

Fine Homebuilding has developed a comprehensive web site, Lead Paint Remodeling Center, where they have aggregated all the information anyone needs to deal with the now in effect EPA Rules on how lead paint on and in pre-1978 homes must be handled.

There are links for homeowners and contractors, down-loadable pamphlets, videos. Just everything you need.

If you own a pre-1978 home in the US, and EVER plan to remodel it, I suggest you go to this site and look at the information on testing your home's painted surfaces to find out if they contain lead. If they do you will know what extra mitigation you are going to be subjected to in order to safely complete your remodeling plans within the law. If you find no lead, be sure to retain your testing data to show to any future contractors and future buyers, should you want to sell.

Most pre-1978 built homes do not have lead paint in them. So, chances are, the testing will be all you need to do.

Good luck with it,

Peggy

Fine Homebuilding has complete information on the EPA’s regulations and contractor certification at www.finehomebuilding.com/lead-safe, as well best practices for lead-safe remodeling that homeowners need to know.

NEWTOWN, CT (October 5, 2010)... Strict new rules from the EPA for lead-safe remodeling, enforced with steep fines for non-compliance, are going to significantly change the way remodeling contractors work. While contractors will be required to pass a certification course before proceeding with work on houses that contain lead paint, the new law is equally significant to homeowners. Fine Homebuilding magazine has created an easy-to-use Web site for contractors and the public that has complete start-to-finish information about lead-safe remodeling.

According to Brian Pontolilo, editor of Fine Homebuilding, “Lead paint has always been a concern for conscientious remodelers. Hopefully, the EPA’s new Renovation, Repair, and Painting (RRP) rule will make homeowners and do-it-yourselfers equally aware of the potential dangers. Adopting lead-safe work habits significantly reduces the likelihood of lead poisoning for the home’s occupants, as well as for workers.”

He added, “Contractors will need to learn to comply with the new law while balancing the increased time, materials, and costs associated with it. Homeowners need to know what they’re getting into whether they’re hiring a remodeler to work on their home or beginning a do-it-yourself project where lead paint may be present. We have created a complete multimedia resource, at www.finehomebuilding.com/lead-safe, with easy-to-understand, accurate information about lead-paint safety and the new RRP rule.”

Fine Homebuilding’s lead-paint-safety Web site includes:
1. How-to video series: Lead-safe remodeling for interior and exterior jobs
2. Two special reports — the what, why, how of the new rule — that you can download
•Understanding the New Lead-Paint Regulations: A Guide for Contractors
•Understanding the New Lead-Paint Regulations: A Guide for Consumers
3. A “Compliance Kit” with downloadable checklists, forms, and pamphlets for homeowners
4. An article collection from Fine Homebuilding on lead-safe and dust-free remodeling strategies
5. A printable job-site warning sign that is required by the new rule
6. Podcast series (3) where we interview a remodeler who talks about tools, OSHA requirements, cost increases you didn’t expect, and obtaining liability insurance

The October/November 2010 issue of Fine Homebuilding, on sale at newsstands now, also contains an in-depth article on lead-safe remodeling.

Data from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) say that more than 250,000 American children under the age of 6 have elevated blood-lead levels. In a significant number of these cases, the elevated lead levels were caused by renovation work that disturbed paint surfaces in older homes. The EPA projects that 1.4 million children under the age of 6 live in homes that are renovated each year. It’s estimated that lead-based paint was used in nearly 40 million American homes before it was banned in 1978. In homes built before 1978, for any renovation that includes disturbing painted surfaces (and most do) the new EPA rules apply.

New Vu1 Light Bulb a Big Step Closer

2010-10-08T12:32:00.000-07:00

A company I have been watching with interest since learning about their new technology earlier this year has just announced UL Certification.

I must admit that I am a shareholder. As soon as I heard that they were creating an energy efficient lightbulb with no mercury that creates light similar to incandescent and will cost about the same as a high quality compact fluorescent (CFL), I just HAD to jump on board for the ride.

This is so exciting! I can hardly wait to get my hands on their new R30 lamp; a replacement for all those downlights in kitchens across the nation.

Peggy

Vu1 Announces UL Certification... 8-Oct-10 10:25 am

Vu1 Announces UL Certification for Unique Clean Energy-Efficient Light Bulb; Preparation Started for Commercial Production

Vu1's Electron Stimulated Luminescence™ (ESL™) R30 reflector bulb serves addressable US market of 800 million recessed can lights and more than 140 million bulbs sold per year

Company anticipates revenue generation by the end of the 2010 fourth quarter
SEATTLE, Oct. 8 /PRNewswire/ -- Vu1 Corporation (OTC Bulletin Board: VUOC), a developer and manufacturer of mercury-free, energy-efficient, general illumination lighting technology, today announced that it has received final approval for UL listing for the Company's R30 Electron Stimulated Luminescence™ (ESL™) energy-efficient reflector light bulbs.
Vu1's R30 ESL™ bulb is a direct replacement for the 65W incandescent flood bulb. It is virtually indistinguishable from the traditional incandescent lamp it replaces and, unlike CFLs, is mercury-free. The Company's ESL™ Lighting Technology uses accelerated electrons to stimulate phosphor to create light, making the surface of the bulb "glow," providing natural light quality, energy efficiency and a long bulb life of 10,000 hours.
"Vu1 achieving UL certification for its unique Electron Stimulated Luminescence™ R30 bulb is a major milestone for the company and a testament to the skill of Vu1's development, engineering and manufacturing team based in the Czech Republic along with the hard work and dedication of everyone at Vu1 and its many supporters," commented Philip G. Styles, President and Chief Executive Officer. "The rapidly growing number of consumers and businesses that want a clean, more energy-efficient and affordable light bulb will now no longer have to accept a compromise on functionality, light quality, aesthetics or price. Vu1's groundbreaking ESL technology can create a solution for all and has the potential to be further developed into all aspects of the lighting industry."
The primary initial market for Vu1's R30 light bulb is the commercial and residential General Illumination Market, where incandescent, halogen, compact fluorescent ("CFL") and Light Emitting Diode ("LED") lighting is used. In recent years, the industry has shifted to more energy efficient lighting solutions in an effort to conserve electricity. Additionally, U.S. and international legislation has moved to phase out use of traditional incandescent bulbs in favor of more energy-efficient solutions. The U.S. has passed legislation intended to phase out the use of the incandescent light bulb beginning in 2012, with a full phase out in 2014.

More:

http://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/...

Merillat & Curtis Stone - What a Combo!

2010-08-26T19:42:00.000-07:00

I recently received the below email from the Merillat cabinetry's marketing people:

MERILLAT'S NEW ONLINE TOOL ALLOWS HOMEOWNERS TO CREATE THEIR DREAM KITCHEN

Whipping up your dream kitchen is quicker than making dinner with new step-by-step planner

ADRIAN (Mich.), August 11, 2010 /PRNewswire/

Planning a dream kitchen has just gotten a little easier with Merillat’s new intuitive online tool called the Step-by-Step Kitchen Planner. Designed to guide homeowners through a customized planning process, the Step-by-Step Kitchen Planner helps them find the most appropriate styles, products and features for their lifestyles, and visualize their new kitchen choices in a virtual rendering that can be shared with their local Merillat dealer.

Intrigued, I linked over to their site and gave their "Step-by-Step Kitchen Planner" a test drive. They even have wonder-chef Curtis Stone as their spokesperson. Cool.

Here are the results:

Thing is: I requested a PENINSULA, not an island, in my "dream kitchen". I also requested provisions for my husband, who does his cooking in a wheelchair. Alas, not there. A cooktop and separate oven below??? Where are they? Many other details were also missing, but those are the biggies.

I guess this is what you can expect from a free design service from a contractor grade cabinet line. Your friendly Merillat dealer can make the corrections.

Peggy

Q & A on "The Best Cabinets"

2010-08-20T15:54:00.000-07:00

Q.

Dear Peggy!

I came across your website via your 'Kitchen-Exchange' site where you attempted to pilot a survey about US kitchen cabinet manufacturers.

I wish there would have been cooperation for your project as it was an excellent idea and something that could have helped consumers to navigate through the market.

The reason why I am contacting you is to ask you for advice on exactly this issue. I am aware you may not be in the position to give advice to anyone else than your clients, so, please, consider this e-mail only as a polite attempt on my side.

My family and I live in Houston and we are about to start construction on a new house. (After we flooded, it was better to tear down and rebuild instead of remodel.)

I have tried for some time now to decide on an American manufacturer for our kitchen cabinets and find it extremely difficult to compare different qualities as the sheer number of companies is making this effort almost impossible. Since we are from Germany, I am more familiar with the German market.

So far, I understand that Wood-mode is a leading manufacturer in this country. Since we are trying to stay within a budget, I have been trying to find an alternative, a company that is comparable in quality.

I thought I had found that company with Ultracraft but someone suggested to me that they are not comparable to Wood-mode at all.

I have read that you recommend Crystal Cabinets. There is a local dealer who sells this company. I wonder, if you have any expertise as far as how Ultracraft compares to Crystal. You also mention Diamond on your side. Would you know how Ultracraft compares to Diamond? I am at a point where I feel confused. Is there any advice you could give?

I have also looked at European kitchens, yet they are frequently priced over our budget.

Despite the humidity, in Houston, the standard for new homes is to have your kitchen build on-site by a cabinet maker. I have only lived in older homes so far and have been disappointed by my build on-site kitchens. Maybe, I am too skeptical and quality of on-site carpentry has improved. Do you have any thoughts on that?

Please, only consider my questions if this is not against your policy.
Thank you.

Kind Regards
Christine

A.

Thanks for your question Christine,

I too was sad when my effort to publicize the "good cabinets" in the American marketplace went over like a lead balloon with my fellow designers in the Industry.

Ever since I have noted wryly that the post in question, Top 10 U.S. Cabinet Manufacturers Survey, is my top traffic-getting post, even years later. So there continues to be great demand for solid information from consumers like you.

I'm afraid I don't have any personal experience with Ultracraft cabinetry. Therefore I can't give you any solid information on how well they are constructed in comparison with Wood-Mode or Crystal.

There are many Industry pro designers who follow this blog, so maybe someone else can chime in with specific answers to your questions.

Both Wood-Mode (Design Group 84) and Crystal (Quest) make a great Euro-style frameless product if that is what you prefer. They are both somewhat less expensive than their face frame products.

You might want to go to the GardenWeb Forums and do a search on Ultracraft. I did so and came up with a few posts mentioning the product.

The GardenWeb Forums are a great resource. I use them all the time when clients ask me about products with which I'm unfamiliar (Yesss. It does happen) . If your question is not already answered there, you can sign up and ask it. The participants are very helpful.

Be aware that there is a lot more to cabinetry selection than price and apparent quality of displays in showrooms. Some manufacturers are very reliable and predictable and others are the total opposite. Lots fall somewhere in between. Manufacturers that produce reliably predictable cabinets and deliver them on time are the "gold" of the Industry. Only the best and strongest dealers get them. The chaff goes to lesser, weaker, dealers. The junk goes to charlatans.

Trouble is: consumers jump into this fray usually once or twice in a lifetime and try to make sense of it all.

If I were dropped into a strange town and asked to come up with the best (manufactured) cabinets to buy there, I would first seek out the best local cabinet dealer. Then I would ask them what their best value cabinet is in the general price range I have in mind. Chances are, that would be my best bet of all the products in that market. I couldn't even hazard a guess as to what manufacturer it might be, because there are myriad small, local manufacturers in the country who only serve a small geographic area.

Play this same game with a marginal dealer and you might end up with cabinets that don't match your selection, or don't get delivered on time, or any one of a million other reasons to be unhappy with your choice.

The better dealer usually carries a full range of quality products, from high to low in price. If they don't, ask them who they recommend that offers products in your price range.

As to your questions about on-site-built cabinets, or local shop-built custom: The only way to determine the quality of such products is to look at them and ask around locally to find the best providers. I am a great advocate of catalyzed varnish finish on cabinets. There is truly nothing else you want to subject to a lifetime of abuse in a kitchen. Many local cabinetmakers still use lacquer finishes because they are cheap and dry fast. You don't want lacquer finished cabinets in a kitchen. They don't hold up.

Best of luck Christine,

Peggy

Energy Audit Video

2010-08-14T15:58:00.000-07:00

This is a great adjunct to my previous post Comments on Green (Kitchen) Remodeling.

We are seeing and experiencing more and more weather related disasters around the world and here in the U.S. The people of Haiti, or Pakistan, or Russia, would not dispute that we are in a climate crisis. We are also seeing problems with weather related disaster here at home: Flooding in Iowa; Hurricane Katrina. This is not going to get easier unless we all do something to help our planet.

Our homes here in the U.S. use 20% of our total energy consumption. TWICE as much as cars (10%). 40% of the energy we use to heat and cool our homes is wasted, by leaky ductwork, poor insulation, all kinds of small leaks that add up to a lot of $$$ and carbon dioxide going into our atmosphere.

By doing an audit and sealing last year on our home, before buying a new furnace and ductwork, we achieved a 48% reduction in our heating energy use. That's pretty amazing considering that we opted to do only part of the prescriptive measures advised. We were also able to buy a smaller furnace than we had been told by other companies that we needed. Even better is the savings month in and month out in windy, foggy, South San Francisco. Best of all is that we are truly comfortable in our home that was once drafty and cold.

Getting a home energy audit BEFORE you plan any remodeling is just good sense. It's easy to incorporate the prescriptive changes into your remodeling plans when you have a roadmap, and a home energy audit gives you the roadmap.

Watch the following video to learn how it works. You'll save lots of energy dollars and help save our planet in the bargain.

Peggy

Green Footprint: Home Performance 101 from Foster City TV on Vimeo.

Great Energy Efficient Lighting Article

2010-07-26T16:08:00.000-07:00

There was a fine article in yesterday's San Francisco Chronicle Home and Garden section on Experts illuminate the future of lighting, wherein Jeannie Matteucci, a great journalist who specializes in home-related articles, interviews my mentor in lighting design, Randall Whitehead, of Randall Whitehead Lighting, Inc.

Randall is a trail blazer extraordinaire and I thank him for sharing his expertise with thousands of designers like me over the years.

Now we are moving into LEDs and, as before, Randall blazed the way. I was right with him too.

There will soon, very soon, be other new kinds of lighting to excite our senses and save our planet. Randall told me a few months ago about one that he has been watching:

Vu1 is a Seattle-based company creating a new kind of light bulb based upon an entirely new lighting concept:

Introducing: Electron Stimulated Luminescence™ Lighting TechnologyElectron Stimulated Luminescence (ESL™) Lighting Technology is an entirely new, energy efficient lighting technology. It is neither incandescent, fluorescent nor LED.
To contrast:

Incandescent bulbs heat a filament to generate light.
Compact Fluorescent Lights (CFL) send a current through a mercury vapor that emits UV light to excite a phosphor.
Light Emitting Diodes (LED) create light by electrically stimulating a semiconductor material

ESL Lighting Technology uses accelerated electrons to stimulate phosphor to create light, making the surface of the bulb “glow”. ESL Technology creates the same light quality as an incandescent but is more energy conserving. There is no use of the neurotoxin Mercury (Hg) in the lighting process.

Vu1's first offering, an R30 light bulb made to fit in recessed ceiling light fixtures, is nearing production. UL approval is due soon.

Here's a video released in July 2010:

This is so exciting! I can hardly wait to get my hands on one. I wonder too what other lighting innovations are just over the horizon?

What's next Randall?

Peggy

New Survey Indicates Americans are Cooking More

2010-06-24T13:18:00.000-07:00

I have taken part, as a kitchen designer expert, in RICKI surveys in the past. Looks like they have created a new consumer survey with results that anyone thinking about a kitchen remodel should note for their planning:

We are cooking at home more in the current economic environment. That's good for our health as well as our pocketbooks.

Most everyone (65%) wants to be able to eat in the kitchen, so space and seating need to be planned. Probably 100% would like to be able to eat in their kitchens if they had the space.

Meal planning takes place in the kitchens of 62% of consumers, so cookbook storage and grocery lists and coupons need to have a place to live in the kitchen.

Consumers planning their kitchens should think about storage space for medications and vitamins in the kitchen. Who knew? Our household keeps all of our meds and vitamins in the kitchen and I guess lots (49%) of others do too!

Also storage for pet foods and a place to feed them (38%) and sorting mail (38%).

Don't forget these essential considerations when planning your new kitchen and you won't be at a loss to figure out where to put them when it's all said and done.

Peggy

July is National Culinary Arts month. With that in mind, RICKI, the Research Institute for Cooking & Kitchen Intelligence, took a look at what’s going on in the kitchen these days, based on findings from its recent study, Remodelers 360: How Americans Use their Kitchens. The study was conducted among nearly 3,000 U.S. consumers and has been conducted every other year since 2006.

Some highlights from the study include the following:

Americans are experimenting with new recipes. Around two-thirds of survey respondents say they try new recipes at least once a month (67%). According to RICKI’s Executive Director, Brenda Bryan, “This figure has been consistent study to study – around two-thirds of Americans try a new recipe at least monthly.”

Nearly a quarter of survey respondents (23%) agree that this statement describes them ‘completely’: ‘I love to cook and try new recipes’. “Women and those under the age of 35 are significantly more likely than their counterparts to say they can relate to this statement,” says Bryan. This percentage does not vary by income level.

More people are eating at home now compared to two years ago. The frequency of eating at home has increased significantly since the 2008 wave of Remodelers 360, jumping from 43 percent of respondents saying they are eating at home more in 2008 up to 59 percent in 2010.

Besides cooking meals, eating and planning meals are the most common activities taking place in the kitchen (65% eating and 62% planning meals), followed by taking medications or vitamins (49%), talking in-person with family or friends (46%), talking on the phone (43%), caring for pets (38%) and sorting mail (38%). And women and higher income people are doing all of these activities in the kitchen more than others.

Of the 17 kitchen activities measured, five declined significantly in the latest survey compared to 2006 and 2008 levels: taking medication or vitamins, talking on the phone, reading newspapers or magazines, entertaining, and caring for plants.

On the other hand, the use of computers in the kitchen has almost doubled (from 6% in 2006 to 11% currently).

“Despite the hectic pace of modern life, the kitchen remains the center of activity in the home,” according to Bryan. “Food is central to our well-being and something that is a hobby for many. Just look at the boom in enrollment at cooking schools. At the Culinary Institute of America for example, enrollment increased 50 percent in the past six years. Many culinary schools have had to add classes in the past few years to meet demand. And another 24/7 food channel was launched this year. I think all of this adds up to a growing base of foodies and good news for those in cooking- and food-related industries.”

NOTE: Detailed PowerPoint slides (charts and graphs) of select findings are available upon request.

Methodology: 2010 Remodelers 360: Trend Report was conducted among 2,906 American consumers between the ages of 18 and 64 from February 12 through March 2, 2010. The study was conducted online in partnership with a leading national online panel company, GMI (Global Market Insite, Inc.), headquartered in Seattle, WA.

About RICKI: The Research Institute for Cooking & Kitchen Intelligence (RICKI) is an independent, membership-based organization of manufacturers, retailers, wholesalers and publications whose revenues come from sales related to activities that take place in the kitchen, including kitchen remodeling.

Find out more at www.kitchenintelligence.org.

FLASH! EPA Delays RRP (Lead Paint) Rule

2010-06-20T15:32:00.000-07:00

This just in from the National Kitchen & Bath Association:
June 18, 2010: NKBA just learned that the Environmental Protection Agency has decided to delay enforcement of the Lead Renovation, Repair and Painting Rule until October 1, 2010.

Acknowledging the need for additional time to enable firms and contractors to become trained and certified in compliance with the April 22 rule, the Agency has agreed to delay any enforcement actions.

The EPA will not take any enforcement action for violations of the Rule’s firm certification requirement until October 1, 2010.

The EPA also will not take any enforcement action against individual renovation workers if the person has applied to enroll in, or has enrolled in, by no later than September 30, 2010, a certified renovator class to train contractors in practices necessary for compliance with the final rules. The training must be completed by December 31, 2010.

To read a copy of the EPA’s announcement, click Here.

This is good news for contractors and painters because many have not been able to get the training needed to become certified. The delay will give them time to do so.

Peggy

Addendum from Qualified Remodeler Magazine:

The EPA asserted that enforcement would continue on work practice standards whether a firm was certified or not.

In a FAQ posted on the EPA’s Web site, the agency issued a clarification to its initial announcement, which was misinterpreted by many to mean that all enforcement was to be postponed. The EPA reiterated that it was not stopping enforcement of work practice standards and record-keeping requirements. Whether or not a firm is certified, the EPA still expects it to adhere to the lead-safe practices outlined in its RRP ruling.

The EPA also withdrew the "OPT-out Provision" that allowed homeowners without pregnant women and children under six to opt out of the extra measures to protect from lead paint contamination when remodeling their pre-1978 homes. All remodels must now conform to the Renovation, Repair and Painting Rule.

A number of Housing Industry Groups plan to file suit over the change.

Peggy

LED Lighting Fact PDF

2010-06-18T19:45:00.000-07:00

Pacific Gas & Electric Company and the California Lighting Technology Center at UC Davis recently teamed to create a fact sheet that helps customers select the right light emitting diode (LED) for replacement applications.

The document addresses solid state lighting basics and offers test results and lamp comparison charts.

The fact sheet also discusses the LED product label that manufacturers are beginning to adopt so that consumers will more easily understand the lumens, watts, and efficacy of the lamps they are buying.

Download the LED fact sheet.

Peggy

Fluorescent Bulb Recycling Resource

2010-06-18T11:55:00.000-07:00

The National Electrical Manufacturers Association (NEMA)’s lamprecycle.org website has provides a one-stop source of information about recycling mercury-containing lamps.

The latest version of the site allows visitors to find compact fluorescent lamp drop-off locations near them with the help of Earth911.com.

Peggy

EPA Lead Paint Rules for Pre-1978 Homes

2010-06-11T14:12:00.000-07:00

I've been busy with "family stuff" lately, but figure it's about time to post here again. And I've been meaning to get this out.

There's a new issue that is plaguing the remodeling industry and owners of pre-1978 homes who want to remodel:

April 22, 2010 marked the onset of new EPA (U.S. Environmental Protection Agency) Renovation, Repair and Painting (RRP) rules on testing and remediation of lead paint in pre-1978 homes (also schools and child care facilities) to protect children and pregnant women from the dangers of lead paint dust and chips generated during remodeling.

Here's the EPA RRP Rule:

http://www.epa.gov/lead/pubs/renovation.htm

Remodeling contractors all across the nation are in a tizzy over new requirements for training to deal with the new rule. Some have entirely precluded work on pre-1978 homes from their businesses. It's the asbestos thing all over again.

Here's what contractors have to deal with to get certified:

Shawn McCadden's very well presented synopsis (Thanks Shawn)

Do-It-Yourselfers are excluded. This from the EPA site:

"Information for Homeowners Working at Home

If you are a homeowner performing renovation, repair, or painting work in your own home, EPA's RRP rule does not cover your project. However, you have the ultimate responsibility for the safety of your family or children in your care. If you are living in a pre-1978 home and planning to do painting or repairs, please read a copy of EPA's Renovate Right: Important Lead Hazard Information for Families, Child Care Providers, and Schools (PDF) lead hazard information pamphlet (11 pp, 1.1MB). | en español (PDF) (20 pp, 3.2MB). You may also want to call the National Lead Information Center at 1-800-424-LEAD (5323) and ask for more information on how to work safely in a home with lead-based paint."

That doesn't mean that you DIYers shouldn't be concerned or that homeowners should be cavalier about hiring a contractor who doesn't initiate testing as a first action when talking to you about renovating your pre-1978 home.

In fact, you yourselves should spend the money and have the testing done on the room(s) you plan to renovate before talking to contractors. Most pre-1978 homes going back as far as the 1950's will test negative for lead based paint on the INTERIOR of the home. Exterior is another matter (Much more likely to contain lead-based paint unless it has all been removed in the past).

If your kitchen and bathrooms show negative on testing, you can pretty well assume there is no lead-based paint in your home. If they show positive, you should get all rooms tested. If you plan to replace windows or doors or add on, disturbing exterior paint as part of your renovation, you should have those areas tested too.

Here's a Consumer Product Safety Commission info sheet on lead-based paint and testing options:

What You Should Know About Lead Based Paint in Your Home: Safety Alert

I'm sure in a few years we will all settle in with the new rules and things will get comfortable again for contractors and homeowners, but right now is definitely a bit more difficult for both with the new rules. Saving children from lead poisoning or reduced leaning capacity is a valid reason to support the rule, which has been a long time coming.

According to a study published in the New England Journal of Medicine in 1990:

"The persistence toxity of lead was seen to result in signifiant and serious impairment of academic success, specifically a seven fold increase in failure to graduate from high school, lower class standing, greater absenteeism, impairment of reading skills sufficiently extensive to be labeled reading disability (indicated by scores two grades below the expected scores), and deficits in vocabulary, fine motor skills, reaction time and hand-eye coordination."

America's children have enough to deal with these days without the added burden of lead poisoning.

Peggy

Q & A on Refinishing Existing Cabinets

2010-04-29T15:40:00.000-07:00

Q.

Many years ago we had a carpenter build our kitchen cabinets (built-in). The finish used was called Hard Seal because it was "green" and so were we. To be fair, I'm not sure the manufacturer would recommend it to seal kitchen cabinets. The cabinets are in dire need of refinishing, but we are stuck with what to use. We don't want to paint the beautiful wood, but can't figure out a tough sealer that will withstand kitchen cleaning. Do you have any recommendations?

Deb

A.

Hi Deb,

I'm afraid I don't know anyone to refinish your cabinets except one really great finisher who does faux finishes (expensive).
He may be able to give you a lead.

Gregory Dixon
Corinthian Decorative Painting
2283 Jackson St
San Francisco , CA 94115
415-923-0500

I know there was someone from the East Bay who contacted me a while back, but I have never used them on a project.
I have pasted in my emails with the marketer who contacted me in 2007 below.
I have no idea if they are still in business today.
Best of luck with your project.

Peggy

At 08:39 PM 1/6/2007, you wrote: Hello,

This is Marc Blackmon. I am the Executive Representative for a re-finishing company. I work with Doors And Drawers in Benicia, CA. I am quite impressed with the layouts that are included on your web-site. I was inquiring on behalf of Doors and Drawers to see if your company does the refinishing internally. My inquiry purpose is due to our company wanting to partner with a top-notch cabinet company. We have done work with numerous well-known cabinet companies. We have been very successful. Like any successful business we are always looking to expand. To not take too much of your time and to keep this brief I would like to just compliment you on your work and leave you with my information. I am consistently in the area on various jobs and if there was a chance that we could meet and further discuss potential business I'd gladly appreciate it. I know how busy you must be and I truly appreciate your time.

Thank You So Much,
Marc Blackmon Executive Representative 5000 E Second St. Suite M Benicia, CA 94510 707-421-8424 Shop
Marcblackmon@yahoo.com

Hi Mark,

I almost always deal with pre-finished manufactured cabinets for my clients. I do not sell product, but instead recommend a course of action based on the needs of the client and project. Occasionally I recommend refacing and/or local custom and then need to find a refinisher or finisher. I am interested to know about your processes. Do you use catalyzed varnishes and paints? If so I want more information.

Peggy

Hello Peggy,

I appreciate your response.

In each project we paint with a conversion varnish. It is catalyzed and reduced. We do everything from staining, painting/glazing, and coloring. All work that is done starts and is completed in house. Furthermore, we color-match to the client's desire. Not to mention we do pre-finished cabinets as well as we do the refinishing. We have specialized in changing oak to paint-grade, which has been a huge success.

Our clientele ranges from the North Bay all the way to the South Bay. We don't have any particular territories or boundaries. I'd love to give you more information.

Please let me know if you would potentially be interested in meeting, so that I could show you some samples of Doors and Drawers work. We are looking to expand and any referrals or references would be greatly appreciated. I truly appreciate your time and consideration.

I look forward to hearing from you soon.

Thank You So Much,

Marc Blackmon Executive Representative/Finisher
marcblackmon@yahoo.com
707-421-8424 Shop

Q.

Oh, gosh, sorry I didn't say...we are on the East Coast and this is a DIY project.We read you because you are so practical with your advice.

We are using your suggestions to remodel our home for the final time -- we are in our sixties. We are focused on practical and easy to clean (very arthritic hands & knees).

Since you wrote that article on cabinet finishes we were wondering if you know of something a homeowner could use; it isn't as though we can send out the cabinets for re-finishing We'd just hate to paint the beauties.

Either way, we are exploring things -- Corian, for example -- that we would not have considered before because we are so traditional. But by this time in life I have neither the energy nor the hand dexterity and strength to be making cleaning poultices for marble. "Keep it simple and keep it clean" is our motto now.

To that end we are dismantling the majority of home so we can live in the 870 sq. ft. left. I know, everyone thinks we are crazy; they worry about the "loss of investment". But we worry about having to move from the 12 acres we have tended over the decades, with apple trees and plum trees, berry bushes and gardens. That is the investment we do not want to lose. So we are taking out the tub and installing grab bars in a walk-in shower, siding with vinyl, replacing the wood stove with radiant, preparing for the winter of our lives in the place we have loved.

A.

Well, if painting contractors are using water-based catalyzed varnish, there probably isn't any reason why really dedicated DIYers couldn't master applying it.

I suggest that you do a search in your area for a really good paint store and ask them about the process and whether you would be able to handle it.

I have not personally worked with the stuff, so I don't know what preparation or equipment might be needed.

Catalyzed varnish, for years, was the purview of cabinet manufacturers only. It was far too complex and expensive to be done in anything but a factory setting. Now, with the (fairly) new water-based catalyzed varnish finishes, painting contractors here, and probably all over the country, are experimenting with it.

I DO warn you though: refinishing cabinets is not for the casual Do-It-Yourselfer. It is a tedious and unendingly torturous task.

Guardsman was always the best catalyzed varnish that cabinet manufacturers used. You could contact them as well and ask about where to buy their water-based catalyzed varnish material and suggested application techniques. Then decide whether to DIY or hire an experienced refinisher.

Peggy

Q & A On Custom vs. Stock Cabinets

2010-03-15T13:09:00.000-07:00

Q.

Hello Peggy,

I am planning on remodeling my whole kitchen.

I have spoken to many dealers and have narrowed it down to one. The dealer I have been leaning towards deals with Diamond Cabinets Manufacturer.

I was wondering if you have any knowledge regarding Diamond Cabinets, and what is your opinion?

Also, you have mentioned Three cabinet manufacturers, I live in the Los Angeles County, West Hills city. Do you know any dealers who deal with those manufacturers?

Thank you for your time.

Nasim

A.

I have used Diamond cabinetry many times Nasim. It has been the product I recommend for my clients who do not have the budget for custom.

I can't help you with dealers in the LA area for Wood-Mode, Crystal and Woodharbor. Sorry. Check on the manufacturers' web sites and they will give you a list of local dealers. Then go talk to them, check reviews on Yelp and such, to decide whom to deal with.

Peggy

Q.

Thank you for the fast response. I have one more question:

I am kinda confused between custom made cabinets and cabinets being ordered from a manufacturer. I have been told that if you don't order custom made cabinets that you will end up with fillers in between your cabinets, but if you are sending in your measurements to the manufacturer then I don't see the difference.

Please inform of the actual differences of custom and others.

Thank you once again

Nasim

A.

Only a very poorly trained kitchen designer would put fillers in between your cabinets Nasim. Fillers almost always should be placed at the end of the cabinets, up against a wall. They perform a valuable function there because, unlike cabinets which should be built and installed square and plumb, walls are often not perfectly plumb, and the filler or extended stile can be scribed to fit the wall.

Let me explain the different types of cabinets to you:

STOCK CABINETS

Stock cabinets come in certain sizes (usually 3" increments from 9" to 48" in width). They are usually made ahead of time and stocked by a distributor, in a box, on a shelf, ready for sale. Stock cabinets are also usually made of thinner components to make them less expensive. Thus they often need "center stiles" (a divider that divides the middle of double-door cabinets to strengthen and support the overall box and shelves). Stock cabinets also typically use less expensive hinges and drawer slides.

SEMI-CUSTOM CABINETS

Semi-custom cabinets are essentially stock cabinets that can be ordered cut down in depth from the standard depths available at an extra charge. They are typically made to order. But in some cases they are essentially stock cabinets, where only the customized pieces in the order are made to order. Semi-custom product lines also typically encompass a greater variety of cabinets and some double-door cabinets available with no center stile (for roll-out shelves and other accessories). They might also make a few standard angled and/or radiused cabinets for use on the end of a run, where conditions are tight. Many manufacturers of custom cabinetry also market a semi-custom line as their budget product (these tend to be better made). Semi-custom cabinets may, or may not be, "lighter construction" like stock cabinets, and also use less expensive hardware components, so this can be a buyer beware issue.

MANUFACTURED CUSTOM

Custom manufactured cabinets can be ordered to any dimensions as long as they do not exceed the limits the manufacturer lists in their catalog, typically 48" wide, and 96" high. Maximum depths vary, depending on the type of cabinet involved. Designers can also order changes in the sizes and heights of doors and drawers, as well as customizing the mounting heights of ovens and other built-in appliances to suit the buyer. They typically use only the highest quality hardware and are made of thicker materials. So they are sturdier.

All customizations in manufactured cabinets carry an up-charge, and manufacturers typically base their standard offerings on basic cabinets very similar to stock cabinet catalogs. However custom manufacturers also offer many MORE cabinet types and accessories than stock cabinets.

LOCAL CUSTOM

I would be remiss if I also didn't mention cabinetmaker custom, local custom, or "true custom", as they like to call it. There the cabinets are designed and made in a local cabinet shop. There are fewer limitations on sizes with local custom. The only definite ones are limitations on the sizes of materials, like sheets of plywood and sizes of the raw wood boards. Cabinetmakers can also do things like matching boards for pattern and color consistency that manufacturers find difficult. They are also free to use both thinner and thicker components, and more or less expensive hardware to meet a budget.

Cabinetmakers also routinely build their cabinets in what they call "runs". This is building what may be an entire wall of base or wall cabinets as one long cabinet. This cuts the cost of face frame material a bit and makes the spaces between doors consistent. Most custom manufacturers will also build a "run" for us, but they up-charge for combining the cabinets.

THE DESIGNER

Most designers, like me, prefer to work with the broader offerings and options that custom cabinets offer. It's just easier to design when we don't have to compromise the design to fit the cabinets offered. This is especially true in remodeled kitchens, where we are often trying to get the most storage and function we can out of the space. We don't customize every cabinet, but instead customize only those that are necessary to meet our design.

As far as cost goes: the prices go up as you progress from stock to custom. Also, the more customization you order, the higher the cost.

Choices of door style, wood and finish also impact your cost. The more elaborate the door style, the more it costs to make. Oak is cheaper and more plentiful than cherry, so cherry costs more. Paints and glazes are more work, so they cost more than standard stains.

Accessories, like spice inserts and recycling bins, also add to the cost of cabinets. Drawer banks cost more than door and drawer base cabinets (unless you add roll-out shelves, then the drawer banks are cheaper). Embellishments, such as crown moulding, corbels, columns, and such; can add a lot or a little, depending on how elaborate they are.

I advise my middle class clients to buy the best cabinet they can afford...up to a point. Beyond that the additional cost becomes aesthetics and not any real improvement in quality or longevity. Compromising quality means that the cabinets may not LAST as long as you need them to. This is a very important consideration if the home is your "forever home". Nobody wants to go through a remodel again just because their cabinets fell apart on them.

The designer is also extremely important in this cost equation. Because a kitchen can be designed for economy or extravagance, and everything in between. A good kitchen designer knows how to hit a budget squarely with the right choice of cabinet manufacturer, door style, wood, accessories and individual cabinets that make up the design. This is why most cabinet dealers/designers carry a range of products to meet the varying needs of their clientele.

Choosing where you buy your cabinets and who your designer will be is also very important because our industry is divided into dealer/designers, and Big Box stores, who service contractors, builders, and the lower end of the consumer market; and those who serve the middle and/or upper end of the market. Generally, you can expect better service, training, and higher quality design at the better showrooms that have a track record and good standing in the community. Of course there are always exceptions to any rule like this, but better trained designers almost always move up to the quality showrooms, or open their own.

I hope I have answered your questions.

Peggy

The ReUse People Will Deconstruct Your Kitchen

2010-03-05T19:35:00.000-08:00

I received The ReUse People's Velvet Crowbar Newsletter today and they are making an offer that the kitchen remodeling contractor and the Do-It-Yourselfer cannot refuse.

These folks know what they're doing and you can be assured that whatever can be recycled from your kitchen will be.

Peggy

TRP Kitchen-Removal Program a Win-Win Recipe
By Ted Reiff

In January, 2010, I briefly mentioned the new TRP Kitchen Deconstruction and Removal Program currently being launched, first in the San Francisco Bay Area and then throughout all TRP regions.

We are targeting kitchen designers and remodelers and homeowners. For the same cost as traditional smash-and-discard demolition, TRP will remove kitchen cabinets and appliances, leave the project in broom-clean condition and provide a tax-deductible receipt for the donated reusable items.

Here is how it works:

You call Kitchen Specialist Diana Pell at (510) 385-5786, or TRP at (510) 383-1983 and request a Kitchen Removal Order Form
The form is immediately e-mailed or faxed to you.
You complete the form, computing the easy cost formula to calculate total removal costs.
You send the completed form back to TRP by email or fax.
TRP calls to arrange the work schedule. (Removal can usually be completed in one day.)
A specially-trained TRP crew shows up on the agreed upon day, completes the work, leaves the kitchen ready for cabinet and appliance installation, and presents you with the donation receipt.
The donation will generally cover the entire cost of removal! How much better can it get? With its nonprofit status and 16-plus years of deconstruction and kitchen-removal experience, TRP is the only company that can offer this sweet a deal.
If the project involves a very large kitchen with expensive cabinets and appliances, an appraisal may be required (appraisals are mandatory for donations of $5,000 or more). TRP will provide you with a list of independent appraisers.

TRP kitchen-removal crews cover finished floors and openings to other rooms with plastic or other appropriate protective materials to minimize dust. If you want additional work done while our crew is there (for example, removal of wall coverings, windows, finished floors or recessed lighting), TRP will provide you with a separate quotation for the work.

Location and Contact Information

TRP Retail-Warehouse
9235 San Leandro Street
Oakland, CA 94603
(510) 383-1983; toll-free 888-588-9490
Hours: Mon through Sat 9:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.

Los Angeles (Pacoima) TRP Retail-Warehouse
11017 Sutter Avenue
Pacoima, CA 91331
(818) 897-2798
Hours: Tues through Fri 10:00 to 5:00; Saturday 10:00 to 4:00

Please visit our partnering warehouse in Kansas City:

Kansas City Habitat for Humanity
4701 Deramus Avenue
Kansas City, MO 64120
(816) 231-7602

Please visit our partnering warehouse in Chicago:

Chicago ReBuilding Exchange
3335 West 47th Street,
Chicago, IL 60632
(312) 554-0900

Please visit our partnering warehouse in the Los Angeles area:

Silver Lake Yards
1086 Manzanita Street
Silver Lake, CA 90026
(323) 667-2875
Hours: Friday, Saturday & Sunday 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. by appointment
Directions: Manzanita Street crosses Sunset Boulevard in Silver Lake. Go south 1 short block and turn right just before Santa Monica Boulevard.

Please visit our partnering warehouse in the Sacramento area:

Sacramento Regional Conservation Corps (SRCC)
6350 27th Street, Sacramento, CA 95822 (northwest corner of 27th St. at 47th Ave.)
Hours: Wednesday through Saturday, 8:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.
Telephone: 916-556-1174

Fifth Anniversary of Kitchen-Exchange

2010-02-20T15:35:00.000-08:00

Today marks the fifth anniversary of the day I started this blog on February 20th, 2005.

Kitchen-Exchange was one of the very first blogs dedicated to kitchen design. Since that day I have been joined by many talented blogging designers.

It seems very apropos today that the fifth anniversary gift is wood. I love wood in an almost visceral way. Always have, ever since I can remember. I love the feel of wood and its smell.

Today I toured the Palo Alto Net Zero House and saw a TorZo wood counter in the powder room. I was in LOVE! I really, really didn't want to leave that powder room.

Now. I must first say that I am NOT fond of wood counters in the kitchen unless they are completely separate from any sink or cooking surface. I have seen too many wood counters marred with mildew and burns to ever recommend one anywhere but where it can't be soaked or burned. They are so impractical!

But OH this Torzo! It is made of myriad wood chips in light and dark colors in an non-toxic acrylic resin. It is so deep looking, so rich. Pictures can't do it justice.

If I had a desktop of TorZo Orient, I would just sit here admiring it all day long and never get a thing done!

I have asked for a sample to test, since TorZo claims that their product is durable and resistant to water. I shall see about that and report back.

Thank you TorZo, for your gift of beautiful wood on my fifth anniversary.

Peggy

New LED Replacement for PAR38 Halogen Lights

2010-02-13T13:10:00.000-08:00

Cree has designed a replacement lightbulb for the ubiquitous little halogen bulbs that so many homeowners covet.

I have avoided using halogen recessed lighting because of my abiding concerns with overheating. Those days are over with the LRP-38.

The Cree LRP-38 comes as a screw-in replacement for existing halogen lightbulbs; or with a 2-pin GU24 connector for use in California, conforming with Title 24 (California's energy code).

Save Energy

* 500 Lumens (Light Output)
* 12 Watt input power
* 41.6 Lumens per Watt (Efficacy)

* Equivalent to 50 to 90W Halogen

Sacrifice Nothing

* 92 CRI (Color Rendering Index)at 2700K (Warm)
* 4000 CBCP (Center Beam Candlepower) with 20° beam angle

Reduce Maintenance Costs

* Designed to last up-to 50,000 hours

Protect the Environment

* Long life, energy savings
* No mercury

Now you, and I, can truly have our cake and eat it too.

Peggy

Choose LED Lighting the Easy Way

2010-02-12T18:38:00.000-08:00

There is a big discussion among kitchen designers on Linked-In today about LED tape lights used as undercabinet lighting.

Many designers seem to be using such products for their wow-factor without considering whether they produce adequate light for countertop tasks.

I get a picture of somebody working in their kitchen with a coal miner's lamp on their head.

Instead of using products that will not meet our clients' needs for proper task lighting, why not adhere to the US DOE (Department of Energy) standards for LED lighting?

Their engineers have run the tests and they have labeled tested products with an easy to understand label detailing the quality of the light output by the fixture and lamp(s) in four critical areas, with test results right on the label (kind of like the mileage labels we have seen on cars for years).

It's as easy as this: Look for the label. Don't buy or specify anything that doesn't have the label. Learn to understand the label. Buy the product that most closely meets the needs of the application.

Anatomy of the Lighting Facts Label

Light Output/Lumens
Measures light output.
The higher the number, the more light is emitted.

Watts
Measures energy required to light the product.
The lower the wattage, the less energy used.

Lumens per Watt/Efficacy
Measures efficiency.
The higher the number, the more efficient the product.

Color Rendering Index (CRI)
Measures color accuracy.
Color rendition is the effect of the lamp's light spectrum on the color appearance of objects.

Correlated Color Temperature (CCT)
Measures light color.
“Cool” colors have higher Kelvin temperatures (3600–5500 K);
“Warm” colors have lower color temperatures (2700–3500 K).

IESNA LM-79-2008
Industry standardized test procedure that measures performance qualities of LED luminaires and integral lamps.
It allows for a true comparison of luminaires regardless of the light source.

Registration Number
Unique number given to each manufacturer and product once they have been registered, verified, and approved.
Only products with valid registration numbers may display the Lighting Facts label.

Model Number
Unique manufacturer's model number for the product.

Type
Specific type of solid-state lighting fixture.

Brand
The brand the product is available under.

There is even a DOE web site listing all of the products that have been tested and approved so far: LightingFacts.com, as well as the judging criteria for each application (so you can understand the label) in their Residential Product Performance Scale.

I have taken their pledge to:

* Evaluate LED product quality by using the Lighting Facts label, which reports performance testing data that measures:

o Lumen output
o Luminaire efficacy
o Power input
o Correlated Color Temperature
o Color Rendering Index

* Use and promote products from manufacturers who participate in the SSL Quality Advocates program.

Therefore I will check all lighting products I post about, from now on, to make sure they have been tested and approved.

Buying LED lighting has just gotten a whole lot easier.

Peggy

07/16/2010
An addendum to this post:

Apparently, the Lighting Facts label is so successful it is now being COUNTERFEITED!

Verify that the Lighting Facts label presented by the manufacturer is a legitimate label
“Buyer (and specifier) beware” – not all labels are legitimate Lighting Facts labels!
Never assume that a label presented to you is accurate. Always refer to the product list on the program web site, www.lightingfacts.com/products, to verify whether:

o Items are registered with the program
o Performance values provided match values listed and verified by the program

04/08/11
A second addendum to this post:

The Federal Trade Commission (FTC) announced that it will extend the deadline for the new consumer Lighting Facts product label from July 2011 to January 1, 2012. This decision was made after reviewing public comments. The new deadline will allow manufacturers more time to incorporate the label on their bulb packages. However, the FTC encourages manufacturers to incorporate the new labels on their packaging as soon as possible.

The new FTC Lighting Facts label emphasizes lumen output, estimated yearly energy cost, life, light appearance, and wattage. This information will help consumers choose the right bulb for their lighting needs, while shifting the focus from wattage to lumens. This effort is especially important with the Energy Independence and Security Act legislation which impacts light bulbs beginning in 2012.

Q & A On Recessed Lighting in Eichlers

2010-02-07T19:52:00.000-08:00

This is a strictly West Coast Q & A.
Eichlers are contemporary California homes built by Joseph Eichler back in the 50's, 60's and 70's.

I have helped design kitchens and baths in many Eichlers over the years, and there are some unique issues about their construction that present interesting challenges.

1. They are built on slab floors with radiant heat built into the slab in the form of piping which carries hot water from a boiler.

2. The design is open plan, with beams and posts to support the structural load (which is the roof).

3. As Tiana mentions in her question below; the roofs are tongue in groove wood, with no room for insulation. The roof is made waterproof with tar and gravel on top of the T&G planking.

4. The electrical actually runs on top of the roof in conduit. Lighting is mostly ceiling mounted ball glass pendants.

Q.
Dear Peggy,

Just saw your blog while noodling around trying to find recessed lighting using very shallow cans. We have an Eichler home in Lucas Valley (outskirts of San Rafael) and were wondering whether we could possibly put in recessed lighting in conjunction with a new foam roof.

This is usually not an option because the roofs are just tongue and grove ceiling boards over the exposed beams, then tar paper, old tar and gravel roof, then foam. But we have 2 inches of rigid board foam in between the tar paper and the tar and gravel on top.

Soooo, when we pour another 1.5 inches of foam for a new roof, we should have approximately 3 inches to work with being then flush with the surface about to receive the new roof.

Is there any recessed lighting which could be used in such a way? -- and ok to use with a sealed in application like that (conduit wired over the roof and permanently
sealed in?)

I was hoping with all these new low heat LED lights, someone would come up with one-- perhaps one more commonly used in cabinets. LEDs are quite bright so the lights could possibly be smaller than normal and still give plenty of light at counter level.

Any ideas? If you have a solution, there are lots of Eichler owners all over the Bay Area who would love your input!

thanks,

Tiana

A.
You would likely make a good kitchen designer Tiana. Our profession is consumed with getting the most out of every inch we are given. ;-D

Getting back to your question: In fact LED recessed fixtures are just a big as the old incandescent fixtures above the ceiling line.

It's true that the lights themselves are tiny, even when ganged together to form a downlight. But they generate a great deal of heat, in spite of your misconception. So a lot of room is taken up by the attached heat sink.

Thus:

This is a Cree LR6. 3/4ths of the light is the heat sink. See the little fins on the sides? They help dissipate the heat. This fits inside a typical recessed fixture that takes up even more height. Then there is the wiring on top of that.

The only ways that I can think of that you could mount recessed lights in your Eichler ceilings would be two:

1. Apply sheetrock to the bottom of your ceilings beams. That would provide enough clearance to recess the fixtures.

2. Build insulated boxes, big enough to provide the prescribed air space around the fixtures, on your roof at the point of each fixture.

I'm afraid either solution would compromise your Eichler home to the point of making it not an Eichler any more.

The only other solution I can offer is to refer you to my favorite lighting designer, Randy Whitehead. I assure you, if there is a solution I have not presented that solves your problem, Randy knows it.

Please let us know if Randy has an answer for all those other Eichler owners out there because I'm sure that this post will draw them like flies.

Good luck Tiana,

Peggy

More on Rushing the Design Process

2010-02-03T11:24:00.000-08:00

Kelly Morisseau, over at her Kitchen Sync blog, has posted on the angst of consumers who wish they had taken more time or spent their money a little differently AFTER they have completed their kitchens.

Read Kelly's post Rushing the Design Process and then come back and read the rest of this.

Kelly advises her clients and readers that the process of planning a kitchen well and thoroughly takes about three months, and I agree. But there are some caveats that are unknown to the designer and the client when they are just beginning the process.

Kelly, and I, or any other experienced designer; can do the work and take our clients through the process of selection of products for a kitchen in three months, and produce a well thought out finished product. Sometimes we can even do it faster. But we never know up front how decisive the client is going to be.

I have had clients who, when presented with a choice of cabinet dealer, cabinetry manufacturer, door style, wood and finish; made their selection and moved on to the next decision in one day. Others may take weeks to decide the same question. The same goes for all the other myriad choices that are part and parcel of our work as kitchen designers.

My point is: To design a kitchen efficiently, we need choices efficiently. Hundreds of them; from the very big, to the minuscule. And we can't proceed, efficiently or otherwise, until we have them.

In fact, I make it a practice to not even ask for choices that come toward the end of the design process until they are needed. Because so many choices are predicated on other choices that must be made before. And I don't want to overwhelm my client with too many decisions at once.

So, to make a long story short, I tell my clients to give the process three to six months. Just in case they are among those who have a hard time making up their minds or (worse) change their minds when they see something they didn't know existed in a showroom or friend's home.

Better to give the process the time it needs than to feel pressured or rushed. The journey, from beginning your work with your designer to the day your new kitchen is finished and ready to use, will be a lot more enjoyable if you don't also have to deal with the "time factor".

Peggy

The Zen Perfection of Mal Corboy

2010-01-28T19:18:00.000-08:00

I have just been on a web trip to New Zealand to view the work of a groundbreaking kitchen designer, Mal Corboy, who won the 2009 Australian Kitchen Designer of the Year award for the kitchen below.

I am blown away by his deft integration of materials and lighting, and use of Corian and stone in unexpected ways (yes, that is stone UNDER the counter/table in the kitchen below).

Take a look.

Peggy

Lightbulb of the Future?

2010-01-23T15:59:00.000-08:00

Philips Electronics has submitted the first entry into the Department of Energy L Prize Competition for a replacement for the ubiquitous 60 watt incandescent lightbulb. And here it is!

This is an LED entry.

The criteria to win the coveted prize are:

* Efficacy > 90 lumens/Watt (pretty bright)
* Power draw < 10W (very low power consumption)
* Output > 900 lumens (pretty bright)
* CRI (color rendering index)> 90 (tomatoes will look like tomatoes)
* Color temperature 2700-3000K (warm white)

More entries are expected by DOE, which will award up to three winners in the 60W category.

The first to meet all competition requirements will receive the cash prize; all three winners will be eligible for federal purchasing opportunities and promotions and incentives offered by the L Prize partners.

Peggy

February 9, 2010 Belvedere-Hawthorne Kitchen Tour

2010-01-18T13:02:00.000-08:00

I always like to support the Bay Area school district parent organizations that make real efforts to raise funds for their schools. An outstanding one is the annual Belevedere-Hawthorne Kitchen Tour coming up on February 9th in Tiburon and Belvedere. Buy a ticket and get chauffeured around to tour a stunning group of homes with incredible views and top architecture and interior design features.

What better way to spend a day?

Call a friend or two and really have fun.

Peggy

A Toast to Particleboard Cabinets!

2010-01-16T20:19:00.000-08:00

There is a spirited discussion about particleboard cabinetry going on right now on LinkedIn among kitchen designers. I thought I would share my perspective on the subject with you:

I have had particleboard cabinets (65 lb. industrial board is the proper designation and what all better manufacturers use) in my own kitchen for 20 years. They were made by Fieldstone back in 1989 when the Leuwerke Brothers owned the company and Fieldstone was a top brand.

One would never know they are particleboard boxes because every exposed surface is covered with veneer...But they are.

They have held up just the way I tell my clients they will. Absolutely no difference between 65 lb. industrial board and plywood, except weight. They are heavier, but once installed they perform the same. Plywood shelves are actually more likely to warp than 65 lb. industrial board and, if they are 3/4" thick, they won't sag either (as long as the shelves are not wider than 42", or up to 48" with a center stile for support).

Interiors and shelves may be covered with vinyl or veneer - no difference in performance.

I was sold when I went to the Wood-Mode factory in 1983 (when Wood-Mode sold nothing but particleboard boxes) and they told me that the entire showroom had been flooded for days the previous year when the Susquehanna River overflowed its banks. They replaced the base moldings (solid wood) and put the showroom back in operation. The 65 lb. industrial board is so dense with solids that it doesn't absorb water like the cheap particleboard used in furniture.

Formaldehyde is also a dead issue. All US cabinet manufacturers stopped using any products that contain more than a minuscule amount of formaldehyde years ago after consumers kicked up a fuss back in the 80's. California outlawed all cabinet (changed from "building" which I used in error) materials containing more than a smidgen of formaldehyde last year (2009).

I see absolutely no reason to pay 15-20% premium for plywood and counsel my clients to save the money and spend it elsewhere in the kitchen. Most listen and some don't. Either way they have no complaints.

Particleboard cabinets are greener too, because the material is made from waste wood.

For further details on my criteria for judging cabinet quality see the CABINETRY page on my web site.

Peggy

P.S.

Dear readers,
I have been ROUNDLY corrected in one of my statements by "Richard" in 'comments'. Unfortunately he included his email address in his comment so I couldn't (in good conscience) post it.

I made the correction in my text above and emailed Richard asking him to re-post his comment without the email address. He has not responded, so I am posting his comment below.

Thank you for pointing out my error Richard.

I DO, however, stand by my statements that particleboard in cabinets made in the USA now has very minimal formaldehyde content and off-gassing.

Peggy

Ms. Deras,

I doubt this will be posted, but I didn't see an email to communicate privately with you. If you have questions, you can reach me at xxxxxxxxx.
Remove this paragraph should you decide to post. You do owe your readers a correction after doing your research.

I would request that you do just a little homework prior to writing things like:

"California outlawed all building materials containing more than a smidgen of formaldehyde last year (2009)."

Being a Californian, I assure you this statement is incorrect in many aspects. I assume you are referring to the CARB regulation. If not, I'd love to learn what regulation/law you are discussing.

CARB only addresses wood products. This leaves items like wall insulation unregulated. This is one of the biggest sources of formaldehyde in residential homes.

CARB also fails to address items like bamboo because it is a grass and not a wood.

CARB also specifies a temperature of 73 degrees. Formaldehyde off gassing doubles for every 10 degree increase in temperature. So a cool 83 summer day yields twice as much formaldehyde. For the folks that live in Indio, Palm Springs, etc., they can see 103 degrees regularly. That means they get 8 times as much formaldehyde.

Then there is the air exchange rate. CARB requires one air exchange every two hours in their testing. This is 50% more ventilation than required starting in 2010 and three times more than the typical California home based on CARB funded research released December 15, 2009. The lower ventilation rates allow formaldehyde to concentrate.

CARB is also designed for each individual building component. There are many different building components in a typical home allowing formaldehyde to be several times higher than the standard.

Since CARB formaldehyde regulation was written, California's Office of Environmental Health Hazard Assessments evaluated the health effects of formaldehyde and reduced the recommended amount of formaldehyde by a factor of 4 in November 2008.

The CARB standard was designed for commercial, office and school settings. CARB advises against using the standard for residential settings until they develop a residential standard. This still has not happened. Homes are designed to have 1/3 the ventilation of commercial settings.

The phase-in periods of CARB's formaldehyde regulation continue to be extended. Phase 1 was established based on what the industry was then producing. Phase 2 which is at least 2 years away from having any effect simply cut those level in half.

Industry supported CARB because it was in reality no change to how they were doing business and many people incorrectly think they are protected.

Richard.

Update 05/30/11

Here's a link to a great comparison Cabinets: Plywood or Particle Board? Which is better?

Peggy

Great Lighting Blog

2010-01-15T13:36:00.000-08:00

I just came across a lighting blog that is new to me, though it appears they have been operating for years. It's Arcadian Lighting's Lighting Fixtures & Lamps Blog. They use it for your questions and their answers on all things lighting.

A great resource and a place to get a free answer from another pro on your lighting questions.

Peggy

Cabinets With A Capital "T"

2010-01-07T20:50:00.001-08:00

There have been many changes in the manufactured cabinet industry over the thirty years or so I have been involved.

I first discovered manufactured cabinets back in the 1970's when I was building, finishing and installing my own cabinets; first in my own home, and later in the homes of clients.

I was always impressed by the look of the finishes because I had such difficulty achieving beautiful and durable finishes myself.

Back in those days there were few choices in cabinet finishes for a small shop like mine. There was lacquer; which was easy to apply, but fragile and brittle in use. Then there were urethane and varathane finishes, which seemed to create a durable result; but ultimately would soften and go gummy with exposure to the oils in your hands and the kitchen environment. I never experimented with oil finishes because they were more often used for furniture and not thought to hold up well to the harsh kitchen setting.

I only learned about catalyzed varnish finishes when I took steps to move out of the cabinetmaker role to become a kitchen designer marketing factory built cabinets.

My first employer was a Wood-Mode dealer who sent me to Wood-Mode's week-long training program at the factory in Kreamer, PA. I was blown away by the huge factory and showroom and the beautiful cabinets they turned out there. I was especially impressed by the demonstrations of the durability of Wood-Mode's catalyzed varnish finishes.

Since then I have seen that durability in reality year after year with most every sizable cabinet manufacturer in the country.

The finish is what separates permeable wood from the harsh kitchen environment. These cabinets really hold up! For that reason I have remained committed to manufactured cabinets over local custom, especially here in California where it was illegal to apply catalyzed varnish because of the toxicity of the process for workers.

Some years ago the toxicity issue became problematic even in the Mid-West and East, where most quality cabinet manufacturers are located; and the manufacturers pushed their finish suppliers to create non-toxic catalyzed varnishes. Now California shops are adopting non-toxic catalyzed varnishes and the reasons to prefer manufactured cabinets are becoming blurred.

There have always been distinct advantages to working with a local cabinet shop: They build the cabinets to fit from their own measurements, so there is not the concern that a mistake could ruin a designer. There are also occasionally conditions hidden behind the walls or cabinets that even an experienced designer cannot anticipate. Having cabinets locally built can save everyone's necks...designer, contractor and homeowner...in a situation like that.

Homeowners also have a different perception about local vs. manufactured cabinets: Consumers see manufactured cabinets as a finished product with consistency that rivals plastic (an incorrect perception). Local custom is seen as more a sum of its parts. There is a sense that individual pieces of wood are assembled to make the cabinets and that stains and finishes can be easily modified to achieve a desired result.

Uniformity in wood cabinet doors and panels is NEVER an accident, but instead a system of examination of the wood at every step in the process to make sure that like pieces of wood end up in the same doors and ultimately in the same kitchens. Such examination is an expensive way to produce cabinets, especially since cabinet quality wood is becoming more and more dear and harder to come by all the time.

When I first started in this business, cabinet doors with solid raised panels from upper-end manufacturers had one, two or three pieces of wood, edge-glued together to make up the solid wood panel (depending on the width of the door). Today the same manufacturers are gluing up panels for a single door made from five to ten strips of wood.

The reason for the change is that old-growth timber is not available from which to cut the larger pieces of wood the way it used to be. In other words...Our demand for wood products means the forests can't keep growing at the pace we are cutting them down. Therefore, we are cutting younger trees to meet our demand for cabinet quality woods..

Not only are there more pieces of wood in a cabinet door, but they are also more variable in their color, pattern and grain.

This variability makes it harder for a cabinet manufacturer to build a door in which all of the pieces match.

Manufacturers are able to build better cabinets for less due to these factors:

1. They locate their factories close to plentiful supplies of their raw materials and in areas where labor is cheaper.

2. They develop economies of scale by building many of the same items over and over.

3. They depend on suppliers of their raw materials to provide consistent product to their written and negotiated specifications.

4. They computerize their processes to reduce the number of employees required.

5. They develop a comprehensive catalog to help designers work with their products.

6. They hire factory representatives who develop and train a system of dealers to market their products over wide geographical areas of the country.

7. They maintain a fleet of trucks and drivers to safely and efficiently deliver their products to their dealers and/or end users.

8. They warranty and stand behind their products, some better manufacturers for a lifetime.

As soon as you add the task of eyeball matching pieces of wood to such a factory setting, you increase the need for storage space to store pieces of wood that are unmatched to date. You increase the waste factor to deal with the pieces of wood that are bought from suppliers but don't ever match well enough to make it into a door. You also increase the time the order takes from submission until it leaves the factory. Just in Time Manufacturing goes out the window. These factors increase the price of the cabinets to the ultra-high-end, making them unaffordable to the broad middle where most sales of custom manufactured cabinets go.

This brings us to my problem: Custom manufactured cabinets don't LOOK as good as they used to look. Consumers have expectations based upon what they have seen or purchased themselves in the past. Those expectations are no longer being met. The process getting here has been slow, but inexorable.

I recently did a kitchen where most of the (medium stained cherry) doors that were delivered on the cabinets were unacceptable to the client. She had done several kitchens over her lifetime and had what she thought were reasonable expectations of uniformity. The manufacturer took a bath trying to make her happy, and ultimately she was, but there was certainly a lot of headache and heartache for the client, the cabinet dealer, the contractor, the manufacturer, and me.

That's trouble with a capital T.

Peggy

The Shoe Tub

2010-01-07T19:11:00.000-08:00

Over the top consumerism. Who ARE these people?

An Italian mosaic manufacturer SICIS Art Mosaic Factory, presents a bathtub for the shoe obsessed.

Audrey is a luxury shoe-shaped bathtub designed by Italian designer Massimiliano Della Monaca and decorated with precious glass mosaic tiles.

The shape of the bath – an elegant pump shoe with a sky-scraper heel – allows the water to cascade down from the heel like a waterfall. These bathtubs are objects of great personality, created as a tribute to the woman's world. And at 165cm tall they will certainly be the talking point of any bathroom.

Happy New Year!

Peggy

Professional Kitchen Design for DIY Homeowners

2009-11-25T19:59:00.000-08:00

I was just cruising the Web and stopped by Susan Serra's blog, The Kitchen Designer to see what she was up to...

The post I link to is about the questions our clients don't ask that can get everyone into trouble when it comes to executing our designs (Where the rubber meets the road). Like every post on Susan's site, the concept was well presented and discussed, with a number of comments.

One reader, Victoria, asks in Comments: "Are there kitchen designers that can work with DIY homeowners?"

I'm going to answer Victoria here. Hopefully she will find my post.

During past "good times" many kitchen design pros might have brushed off a DIY project if they worked for a full-service (installing) kitchen design showroom. However, nowadays I think even the fanciest showrooms would be happy to get the work.

There has never been any reason to assume that a non-installing kitchen design showroom's designers would treat DIYers any differently than any other client.

Everybody else would be happy for the work too. These are difficult times for the kitchen and bath industry; and every job, no matter how small, gets our complete and undivided attention.;-P

Peggy

How to Hire a "Green" Contractor

2009-11-11T14:34:00.000-08:00

Green Building Advisor is offering a down-loadable free white paper, Thinning the Herd for homeowners who want to learn what to expect and ask of builders or remodelers promoting themselves as experienced "green" practitioners.

In fact, the article also delineates most of the criteria you need to consider about hiring a contractor even if you aren't building or remodeling green.

It's well worth the read.

We designers would be lost without great contractors to execute our best laid plans. That's where the rubber meets the road. The best design in the world is only a pile of paper without good execution.

Peggy

Honor Our Veterans

2009-11-06T10:59:00.000-08:00

Veteran's Day is coming up next Wednesday, November 11th.

Around our house every day is Veteran's Day. My husband is a vet who was badly wounded in Vietnam in 1969 at age 19.

We met in 1989 when he came into my showroom and asked me to help him redesign his kitchen. He was walking on his prosthetic legs at the time. Dumb me! I had no idea he was a double amputee until I arrived at his door to measure his kitchen.

Needless to say, I was momentarily taken aback. That was my first experience working with a disabled client and, in those days, our education and training didn't encompass working with the disabled.

He showed me his kitchen and we talked for several hours about the possibilities. He had already removed a wall that once divided the kitchen from the dining room. He related how he had once spilled a pot of boiling spaghetti on his lap in an effort to move the pot from his stove to the sink. I was horrified because kitchen safety is one thing I strongly advocate.

I told him that the $25,000 that he had saved for his project, while perfectly adequate for a "normal" kitchen remodel, wouldn't be nearly enough for the customizations that he would need to make his kitchen safe for use in a wheelchair. We parted with him disappointed and me disturbed.

The next morning, as I prepared for work, I couldn't get him out of my mind...And then a brainstorm! At the time I was on the Board of NARI (the National Association of the Remodeling Industry) San Francisco Bay Area Chapter. We had just started the chapter and were looking for ways to publicize the organization. We could remodel his kitchen as a community service project!

There was a Board meeting a few days later. I broached the idea and the rest of the Board thought it was wonderful. Right then and there we passed a resolution to remodel George's kitchen and get all the materials donated to make his cost as close to nothing as possible.

Excited, I called George with my news. His response: "No way. I'm not a charity case!" It took me three months to convince him. He finally capitulated when I told him if he didn't participate I would find somebody else who would!

I set to work to get together donors and volunteers. Everything was delivered to the site and we commenced with tearout on October 16th 1989. By the end of the day George's kitchen was down to the bare studs.

The following day, at 5:04 p.m., the Loma Prieta earthquake struck the Bay Area. Suddenly all of the contractor volunteers, who had been scratching for work before the quake, were overwhelmed with work. Many came from the East Bay, and the Bay Bridge was down. The project that I had so carefully planned to take three weeks stretched to three months of interminable nagging on my part, and complaining on George's part, before it was finally complete.

At long last, George had his wheelchair accessible kitchen. My task was complete. Needless to say we didn't stop the relationship we had forged over the 8-9 months from that fateful night when I stood on his front porch for the first time. Instead allowing it to bloom into a 20 year relationship and marriage that has endured the tests of time.

Hopefully my story will inspire others to assist our veterans, especially the disabled ones, to live fully realized lives. In this spirit, I continue to offer free design services to disabled veterans. So, if you are a disabled vet reading this, and you need my design services. Please email me. I am happy to oblige, on this Veteran's day, or any day.

If you want to help a vet, a good place to start is with Wounded Warrior Project. Or volunteer at a VA hospital near your community. In the Bay Area we have the San Francisco VA Medical Center, and the VA Palo Alto Health Care System, also a smaller division in Menlo Park, and another in Livermore.

Peggy

Swap Your Lightbulbs and Save the Earth

2009-11-02T19:12:00.000-08:00

There is a new study out by the American Council for an Energy-Free Economy. here is an excerpt:

"Saving a kilowatt-hour through energy efficiency improvements is easily one-third or less the cost of any new source of electricity supply, whether conventional fossil fuel or renewable energy source."

We have already been hearing how fluorescent and/or LED lighting can save many kilowatt hours compared to incandescent. This study reinforces the notion that replacing energy hogging incandescent light bulbs in your home can contribute mightily to reducing global warming.

A penny saved is a penny earned, and a kilowatt hour saved is THREE kilowatt hours earned!

Peggy

Designing Kitchens with Essential Tremor

2009-10-16T16:19:00.000-07:00

October is National Movement Disorders Awareness Month.

October is also National Kitchen & Bath Month!

I am going to combine these two themes into one post, because that's the way I live my life every day.

Obviously I am a kitchen and bath designer. Not so obviously, I have been dealing with a movement disorder, Essential Tremor, since childhood.

"Well known people with tremor include: Samuel Adams, Magnus Berg, Oliver Cromwell, Katharine Hepburn, and Eugene O'Neill.

Recognized for centuries, essential tremor and tremor related neurological movement disorders afflict millions of children, adults, and next generations, yet little is known about the etiology."

I remember being a small child and watching my mother tie my shoes. Her hands always shook when doing such tasks. She was in her early thirties at the time. Essential tremor is often "familial". It runs in families. My Mom had it; I and both of my brothers have it; my oldest daughter has it; my younger daughter has escaped...So far.

My first inklings that I might have a problem occurred when I had to get up on stage as a child. I would shake uncontrollably, with my heart pounding; and soon was avoiding those days at school with "sore throats" or "headaches".

I was an artistic child, always doing some sort of art or craft project. I was so good with my hands that I took up sculpture and painting as I progressed through school. I dreamed of becoming an artist, and spent most of my free time improving my work.

Unfortunately I never found a way to make money at my artistic endeavors. So I became a surgical nurse (also hand-eye intensive work) to pay the bills, but I still continued my art for my own enjoyment.

As I went through my twenties and thirties I noticed more and more occasions that would cause my hands to shake. Stress exacerbated the problem.

I married, had children, and left the work world to care for them.

I began remodeling our home and building and installing cabinetry (handy me). Eventually I returned to work and became a kitchen and bath designer. Finally, I had found a way to make a living drawing!

In 1991 we were in a terrible recession, very much like today. I had no work and talked my employer into sending me to CAD training because the State would pay for it.

I purchased a computer and AutoCAD software and went through a six month training program. Thank YOU California!

Ever since 1991 I have done all of my drawing and drafting on the computer in AutoCAD. It's a good thing too, because I would have been out of commission as a kitchen designer by the mid-nineties because my tremor got worse.

I learned about Essential Tremor and was diagnosed by a movement disorder specialist. I take quite a bit of medication to keep my tremor under control.

It doesn't work any longer. I can no longer conceal my tremor from my clients. But I still want to continue with my work.

The tremor doesn't affect my mind; just my hands and head.

So, if you don't mind working with a shaky kitchen and bath designer...Give me a call. Just remember: When I shake my head, it may not really mean "no".

Peggy

Addendum: Essential Tremor is often confused with Parkinson's Disease. Here is an explanation of the differences between the two maladies by a cogent neurologist, Dr. Kieran.

Q & A On Installing Used Cabinets

2009-10-12T15:48:00.000-07:00

Q.

Hi Peggy,
What you are doing with this blog is WONDERFUL !!! Thanks.

My wife and I are remodeling our kitchen (with small eating area attached). We have just bought a complete (16 piece) used kitchen with Cherry cabinets made by Wood Mode. These are not very old as one of the pieces is the tilt out mixer cabinet. We have an electrician ready to rewire and the gutting of the kitchen will be within the next couple days, (cleared wall to wall area around 13x14). My question is: how do I go about installing the cabinets (with a good installer/minor cabinet maker)? Should I contact the dealer in the area (My Dream Kitchen) in Greensboro, NC and tell them what I have and my kitchen plan or should I simply rely on the installer to make decisions on "what else" is necessary to finish out the space?
I'm leaning toward the dealer IF they would work with and accept the used cabinets (and, of course, accept our $$$ for additional Wood Mode cabinet and accessories that we may need to finish the job.
Your thoughts???
Thanks for your help,

Wayne

A.

Thanks for your kind words Wayne.

Congratulations on your purchase of used Wood-Mode cherry cabinets for your kitchen. Hopefully you will be able to use most of them in your new design.

You are wrong in thinking the pop-up mixer shelf denotes that the cabinets are fairly new. Wood-Mode has been making that cabinet accessory since at least 1983, when I became a kitchen designer. I went to the Wood-Mode school, at their factory in Kreamer, PA., that year and they displayed it in their factory showroom. At the time I thought "What a wonderful idea!". Since then I have learned that using the mixer shelf is a real pain because you and your mixer are out in front of the counter (where all your ingredients are). Also any spills or spatters usually end up on the floor. It is one of those cabinet accessories that I always talk my clients out of buying.

Back to your questions:

The only way to find out if your local Wood-Mode dealer is willing to work with you on creating a layout that works with the cabinets you have purchased and supply a few new ones to match, and then install everything; is to ask them. In better times my bet would be that the answer would be "no". These are not better times.

Be prepared to pay them an hourly rate for the planning, since selling a few additional cabinets does not cover their cost in planning and design hours.

I have helped clients work with used cabinets many times over the years. Usually because I have sold them a display from my showroom (back when I had a showroom). It's always a difficult design exercise; since we designers are trained to design for efficient use of new cabinetry, rather than fitting in as many components as possible of a used kitchen. The more attention you pay to what you already have, the less efficient the kitchen becomes. The more you try to design for efficiency, the fewer cabinets you have that can be used.

There is another issue that will impact your new kitchen...Maybe to a great extent:
Those beautiful Wood-Mode cherry cabinets you have purchased have been mellowing since they were installed. Mellowing is the color change that cherry undergoes as it is exposed to light. The wood gets redder and darker in the process. Additionally, the finish has yellowed a bit over time, with cooking fumes, possibly cigarette smoke, and light exposure. These issues mean it is impossible for you to walk into a Wood-Mode dealer and look at samples and match the wood color and finish on your used cabinets.

If you are lucky, whoever staffs My Dream Kitchen will be somebody who has been working with Wood-Mode cabinetry long enough, and the stain color will be distinctive enough, that they recognize it. If not, it's a shot in the dark that any current stain color you choose will match your cabinets once the new cabinets mellow and yellow to the point that the old cabinets are.

If your used cabinets were some other manufacturer, the chances of matching the stain (eventually) would be even less. At least Wood-Mode has kept most of the stain colors they have had. Many other manufacturers are more "fashion oriented" and change constantly.

Be sure to cover any areas of the cabinets that may have been covered in the previous installation (under mouldings, or switch plates for example). Then you will have a much closer match to what the cabinets looked like to begin with. Also, if any original labels remain on unfinished cabinet sides or backs, you are in luck. Because the labels indicate door style and stain color.

Another issue is door style: Many cabinet manufacturers change door styles often. Wood-Mode still makes many styles that they made many years ago, so you are more likely to be able to match the door style because the cabinets are Wood-Mode.

It is also possible that the previous owners were the people who actually bought the cabinets new. If so they may have retained their original cabinet order from their dealer for their tax records. That makes life easy for you as well, since the door style and stain would be right on the order, and you would also have a complete list of the cabinets you have purchased to help the dealer design your new kitchen.

Then there is the issue of the wood itself: Ten or twenty years ago there was a lot more old growth hardwood around than there is today. My kitchen is twenty years old this year. The raised panels in an 18" wide door in my kitchen are made of three pieces of wood glued together side by side. Similar cabinets made today might have seven pieces of wood to make up that same panel. This makes for a lot more variation in each door, since every piece of wood looks a little bit different. That's why kitchens look a lot "stripey-er" these days.

As you can see Wayne, buying used cabinetry and matching it is a lot more complicated than you may have known until now (In fact I have probably told you WAY more than you want to know).

So, give My Dream Kitchen a call and explain your situation. Ask for their help in designing your kitchen, supplying the additional cabinets you need and installing for you. If they do agree to help you, you will be well ahead of the game since all the headaches will be theirs (for a cost). If they don't agree you will still need to work with them to order the additional cabinets, so don't burn any bridges.

Good luck,

Peggy

HLOCs in Peril

2009-10-04T12:43:00.000-07:00

There was a large portion of Andrew S. Ross' "The Bottom Line" column, Wells Fargo cutting customers' lines of credit, in the San Francisco Chronicle today devoted to banks yanking Homeowner Lines of Credit from Bay Area customers with good credit.

Ross' article is required reading for any homeowner who plans to finance a remodel with an unused HLOC. Even with a stellar credit rating, you may find the HLOC is bye-bye.

Peggy

Kitchen Cabinetry Trends for 2009

2009-09-22T11:51:00.000-07:00

Kitchen & Bath Design News, an Industry publication, published a study on trends in the cabinet industry today.

Here are the highlights with some comments:

Clean lines and classic styles dominate today's kitchen cabinet choices, with value, sustainability and organization key priorities among consumers.

I have long urged my clients to choose cabinetry styles and finishes that fit with their homes, and of a quality that will endure for a lifetime of use.

Maple and alder are popular wood choices, while bamboo and lyptus appeal to environmentally conscious consumers. For the more budget-minded shopper, laminates in wood grain patterns offer an appealing option.

I only recommend true hardwoods, like maple, birch, cherry, hickory, and oak for my clients' kitchens. In my mind alder, while a beautiful wood, is too soft to stand up to the rigors of kitchen use. Reserve it for the family room or library if you want to save the cost of cherry. Lyptus is a newer wood species that deserves attention. It is very hard and has the same characteristic of reddening or mellowing with exposure to sunlight as cherry. Because it grows very quickly, it is considered more "green" than most other woods. Bamboo also makes a good green cabinet surface IF you choose a maker that uses high quality material (like Plyboo or Timbergrass). Laminates have long been used in cabinetry, but users tire of the look long before they wear out in many cases.

Interior storage accessories are more relevant than ever as they maximize cabinet space and accessibility - particularly critical as consumers increasingly decide to remodel within their kitchen's existing footprint rather than expanding the space.

Custom components are becoming more affordable, allowing consumers at all price points to create a more personalized look for their cabinetry. However, excessive ornamentation has fallen out of vogue, with cleaner styles that minimize clutter reflecting the new consumer mindset.

In my mind, fussy corbels and monstrous moldings are simply a waste of space and money and add to the task of keeping the kitchen clean.

Painted finishes are gaining in popularity, while contrasting paint and stained finishes in one kitchen is a great way to add visual interest and character.

The San Francisco Bay Area, with our many Victorian homes, is a nexus for painted cabinetry. We use it here, in fashion or out.

Consumers are showing greater awareness of green issues as the Kitchen Cabinet Manufacturers Association's Environmental Stewardship Program grows in scope, yet the added cost to “going green” presents an obstacle that is difficult to overcome in a challenging economy.

There are so many ways to enhance the greenness of our homes that also save us money down the road, that I can't imagine why we wouldn't pursue at least some elements of green in every remodel. As long as we remember to question the payback of every green idea that comes our way and only do those that have a defined and measurable payback, we should be just fine.

Peggy

HUGE Sale at Vetrazzo This Weekend

2009-09-19T10:50:00.000-07:00

I just got the word that Vetrazzo, the famed Richmond, CA maker of recycled glass countertops, is having a clearance sale this weekend, September 19-20, 2009.

Prices are 50-70% off the retail cost of slabs for material that is not their regular line (They do a lot of experimenting there).

This is your chance to buy a green countertop at bargain basement prices.

Peggy

Greetings Friends of Vetrazzo. We're having a huge Factory Sale this weekend to clear out two years' of off-spec material. There is some stunning product being sold direct at huge discounts. Think of it as the Crate & Barrel Outlet but for countertops.

Thanks. Hope to see some of you there!

James Sheppard
CEO & Co-Founder
Vetrazzo, LLC
510.772.7770
www.vetrazzo.com

Julia's Kitchen Being Remodeled

2009-09-17T13:11:00.000-07:00

Industry publication Kitchen & Bath Business has an article in this month's edition about the 1961 kitchen, now in the Smithsonian, from Julia Child's home; where she created her daily cooking program.

The new film, Julie and Julia with Meryl Streep playing Julia Child, is such a smash hit that interest in The French Chef is reaching a fever pitch.

Julia Child's kitchen, on display at the Smithsonian National Museum of American History.

Meryl Streep as Julia Child, on set in Julie & Julia. Photo courtesy of Jonathan Wenk, Sony Pictures Entertainment.

In the article, Ready, Set, Remodel, kitchen designers from around the US are asked how they would change Julia's kitchen today, to bring it into the 21st Century.

Me? I wouldn't change a thing.

Peggy

Now HERE'S a New Faucet!

2009-09-11T15:06:00.000-07:00

It's been a long time since the first European faucets struck me with their ugliness and then sold me with their functionality. Seldom am I brought to my knees over a faucet design. But the new TriFlow Concepts kitchen and bathroom faucet designs by Zaha Hadid do just that.

I don't know what these babies cost, but they truly look like a work of art for your island. My compliments also to the photographer who took these shots. They make my mouth water.

Peggy

As described by Zaha Hadid:

“Our starting point was a series of formal studies on the conceptual terms of ‘fluidity’ and ‘seamlessness’ as we wanted to generate the fluid geometries of water in motion. By applying advanced 3D software to our experiments into the viscosity of liquids, we were able to explore complex forms and their productivity for domestic environments. A major benefit of this design language is that you can create something that not only appears continuous, but also blends seamlessly with the ergonomic needs of a tap.”

Featuring Triflow’s exclusive, patented three-way technology, the filtered drinking water is delivered through a dedicated waterway thereby isolating it from the hot and cold water streams. The latter are controlled by the tap’s discreet handle, while a touch-sensitive electronic button activates the filtered water. A green halo light glows when operational, turning to red when the water treatment cartridge requires replacement.

LED Reflector Replacements for PAR & MR16

2009-09-08T14:55:00.000-07:00

Until now, the LED bulbs designed to replace the little reflector-type PAR or MR16 bulbs were a disappointment to buyers. That's a shame. A shame that manufacturers jumped the gun with products that weren't the equal of the incandescent bulbs they were designed to replace.

Now comes a new set of products by manufacturers that have already proven to us that they can provide LED downlights with the brightness to replace incandescent.

The new tiny, screw-in, reflector lamps (bulbs) are designed to replace energy hogging PAR lamps and MR 16 lamps. They provide light levels that are on a par with halogens up to 120 watts, and the light is focused much tighter than an LED downlight.

For further information on these new gems in energy efficient lighting see
LED Retrofit Lamps Now Viable as PAR Halogen and R-Lamp Replacements, by Kevin Willmorth, on page 58 in the July/August edition of Architectural Products Magazine.

There you will find information on the brands tested and approved (GE & CREE), and caveats: Not dimmable, no energy credits (because they can be swapped for incandescent).

Peggy

100% Fluorescent Kitchen Lighting

2009-09-07T19:27:00.000-07:00

I am having a discussion with another kitchen designer on an industry forum:

Charles is resistant to the idea of using fluorescent lighting; saying he can't achieve the drama with fluorescent that he can with incandescent. Just as we California designers had to learn how to use fluorescent, now the rest of the country is faced with the task. I can honestly say it has been YEARS since I specified an incandescent light in a kitchen I designed. Most of the kitchens I design use 100% fluorescent lighting, and lately, LED lighting.

Here is a kitchen I recently helped to design with 100% fluorescent lighting...There ARE a couple of LED downlights in the adjacent breakfast nook, but they aren't visible at all in the images (and LEDs are even more efficient than fluorescent).

Pretty dramatic, isn't it? Warm, isn't it?

This shows that fluorescent doesn't have to look ghastly cold and green. By carefully choosing the fluorescent lamps (bulbs), we can achieve drama, warmth, even the coziness that once only characterized incandescent lighting. And all the while saving precious energy.

The times they are a-changin'

Peggy

P.S. The contractor on this Silicon Valley project was Ivan Martinovsky, of Martinovsky Construction. A superb remodeling contractor, in case you need one.

Q & A on Oven Placement in the Kitchen

2009-09-07T16:01:00.000-07:00

Q.

Thank you for providing great information on kitchen design, your experience and insight are very helpful!

I have a question concerning double oven cabinet placement.

1. When using a cook top with the double ovens in a separate cabinet, are there any rules about where to place the double oven? The reason I ask is, I have seen some designs with the double oven cabinet next to the refrigerator and others showing it placed outside of the main cooking triangle. How do you know "How far is too far?"

My kitchen is U-shaped, please see attached drawing, and as I plan for my kitchen remodel, I'm puzzled as to the best placement of the double oven should be. In the model home kitchens of my floor plan, one had the double oven by the refrigerator, the second located it in the left U corner. In both homes, the center island however, had reduced width and extended length to 40 W X 95 Long. They also extended the sink/half wall area.

What guidelines can you give to help determine the best placement for the double oven cabinet?

Thank you so much your time I appreciate any feedback you can share,

Jengi

A.

Without getting into the specifics of your design Jengi, which would entail consulting costs, I can comment in general about my philosophy when it comes to oven placement in the kitchen.

You have already mentioned some common locations for consideration:

1. Next to other tall cabinets like the refrigerator or a pantry.

2. Completely out of the "Work Triangle" in a remote area of the kitchen.

Here are some more options to consider:

3. Use two separate ovens and place them either under the counter, or in a pantry cabinet. One "handy" and the other remote.

4. Buy a range with one or more ovens...This option only makes sense for those who want a range and have enough storage space around it.

The ovens are statistically the least used appliance in most kitchens. You put something in the oven and it stays there until it is ready to be removed. Therefore, most cooks don't miss having an oven within the work triangle area, especially when counter space is tight.

Of course there are exceptions to the rule: The cook who broils every night; the cook who wants a combination microwave oven unit. But for most cooks banishing the ovens is no great loss in the overall scheme of things. You must weigh the relative importance of each choice you make in designing a kitchen against the other possibilities.

An experienced kitchen designer will take their client through a series of decisions to develop a kitchen design that is tailored to the individual and the space. There are almost always compromises because the space is not unlimited. But the result will be a kitchen design that the client knows is the best it can be, for him or her.

1. Because so many of the kitchens I help design in the San Francisco Bay Area are small, option 1 is something I do a lot. Burying the ovens next to something else that is tall seems to make the rest of the kitchen feel more spacious. Since there is usually counter space on only one side, I usually place the refrigerator next to the counter space. That counter space is the "sandwich making center". Devoting it to oven landing space doesn't make much sense when you compare refrigerator usage with oven usage.

2. Option 2 is used less often, but still viable when there are no other options (How far is too far? Outside the kitchen is usually too far, unless one oven can be placed inside the kitchen).

3. Option 3 is fairly common for those clients who can afford two separate ovens.

4. Option 4 is also common for those clients who like the "commercial look", or where the main cook is a man.

Another issue that often comes up in discussions about oven placement is back problems. Those clients who have back problems do not want to bend to use an oven. For such clients placement of the oven at a comfortable height is mandatory.

Another common question regards placing the oven in close proximity to the refrigerator. Some clients are concerned that the refrigerator will die an early death as a result. This has not been an issue at all. Refrigerators these days are so well insulated and ovens are vented out the front and well insulated as well.

Then there is "landing space". An oven doesn't HAVE to have counter space next to it, but there must be counter space within easy reach. An island, or peninsula, often provides such a spot.

Lastly there is the issue of safety: Ovens are hot! Removing a heavy item, like a hot 25lb. turkey, from the oven can be dangerous if the open oven door is positioned too high to be safe. Kitchen designers are trained to carefully specify the placement of the oven opening height to be safe for all users.

Peggy

PARAPAN! The Sleekest in Cabinet Doors

2009-09-04T15:27:00.000-07:00

There was an entirely new product shown at the National Kitchen and Bath Association Show (KBIS) this year. Attendees voted it the Best New Kitchen Product in the show.

PARAPAN®, by Element Designs, is a high gloss solid surface material, available in a 3/4" thick version that is fabricated into door and drawer fronts and a thin veneer-like version for covering exposed ends and appliance fronts.

Being in the K&B business a long time, I was reminded of the polyester cabinet doors that debuted with a big splash back in the 80's and then disappointed designers and buyers when they didn't hold up to the harsh environment a kitchen presents.

Intrigued, I contacted Element Designs and requested a sample to test myself. They sent me a beautiful, bright, Cobalt Blue sample. To request a product sample, call 800-631-5384.

To my surprise PARAPAN® proved to be up to every challenge I could think of. The only negative is the weight of the doors. Like Corian®, and other acrylic-based solid surface products, PARAPAN® is heavy. That means the hinges need to be extra heavy duty and watched carefully in use. I wouldn't want one of those doors to fall on my toesies. That's for sure!

The material is made in Germany, by Evonik Industries AG, and distributed here in the US by Evonik Cyro LLC.

Element Designs, of Charlotte, NC, seems to have an exclusive on the product, as cabinetry, here in the USA, at least for the time being.

This IS a high-end product - No doubt about that. And it MUST be seen to be appreciated. The colors are not done justice on a computer or printed page. But if you have the wherewithal and want beautiful clear color and high gloss, PARAPAN® is the answer.

Peggy

"PARAPAN® doors are made of a revolutionary, highly reflective, solid surface material which is easy to maintain, water resistant, and UV and fade resistant. The solid surface doors are environmentally friendly, do not contain any VOCs or plasticizers and are also fully recyclable. The doors are available in 17 vibrant colors, are custom manufactured to 1/16", have quick lead times and no minimum order quantities, making them ideal for both new construction and remodeling projects."

Q & A on Kitchen Design - Most Important Aspect

2009-09-02T16:12:00.000-07:00

Hello!

I am an aspiring Interior Designer, currently studying at Modesto Junior College. In my Kitchen and Bath Design course, we have an assignment to research a designer.

If you have the time and would like to have your quote in a students essay:

What do you consider the most important aspect of kitchen designing?

Thank you for your time, and I love your work!

Lauren

Thank you for your question Lauren.

The most important aspect of kitchen design, after learning the basics of the craft, is to learn to LISTEN to your clients or potential clients.

Listening is a skill that most people only develop over time, with trial and error. But missed cues are very problematic in the designer client relationship.

Clients often do not know how to articulate what they want. But they always know when a designer is not listening to them, and going off on wild tangents that have no relationship to their desires.

Novice designers often do most of the talking when interacting with potential clients. They have absorbed all that knowledge and they want to show it off! Then they wonder why the clients don't come back. It's because they have found somebody else who listens.

A designer who listens and asks questions to understand fully the client's true desires does not develop plans that are wrong for, and a disappointment to, the client.

Best of luck to you in your career Lauren.

Peggy

Re: Save the Light Bulb!

2009-09-01T20:10:00.000-07:00

Came across this article in the WSJ, by a noted lighting designer, who rants on compact fluorescent lighting being foisted on the unsuspecting public by the big, bad, government. I simply MUST respond.

* The Wall Street Journal

* OPINION
* AUGUST 30, 2009, 7:19 P.M. ET

Save the Light Bulb!
Compact fluorescents don't produce good quality light.

By HOWARD M. BRANDSTON

"The Energy Independence and Security Act of 2007 will effectively phase out incandescent light bulbs by 2012-2014 in favor of compact fluorescent lamps, or CFLs. Other countries around the world have passed similar legislation to ban most incandescents.

Will some energy be saved? Probably. The problem is this benefit will be more than offset by rampant dissatisfaction with lighting..."

I'm afraid Mr. Brandston is living in the past. A past where Edison lights cast a warm glow and the man of the house spent his evenings banking the coal furnace for a long winter's night.

One would think that a lighting designer who relit the Statue of Liberty would embrace new technology, especially when the world as we knew it is fast disappearing in a swirl of forest fires and hurricanes.

If everyone in the nation had been nudged into energy efficiency the way Californians have since the advent of Title 24 (California's energy code that has kept our energy usage at 1990 levels for decades), we would be well on our way to solving our energy conundrum, and less far down the road of global warming.

Fluorescent, and newly, LED lighting are revolutionizing the way residential spaces are lit. Designers who have embraced the technology and found creative new ways of lighting our homes and lives should not be intimidated by those who would take us back to the horse and buggy. Nor should those who still need to learn how to design with fluorescent lighting. We have blazed a path for you and the learning curve is not steep, nor the goal trivial.

Homeowners, don't fall for such drivel. You are the ones who are driving the expansion of demand for truly green homes with energy efficient lighting along with energy efficient appliances, solar, windows, HVAC, insulation, sealing, etc. Do not waver. The planet cannot wait any longer.

Peggy

Best & Banned CFL Bulbs

2009-08-30T14:24:00.000-07:00

The Environmental Working Group (EWG) has published a guide to the best compact fluorescent light bulbs with the lowest mercury content and the highest energy efficiency.

Unfortunately there are a lot of cheap CFLs on the market, and most are even Energy Star labeled because Energy Star only rates energy efficiency - NOT mercury content.

EWG has set a higher standard in their testing for their Green Lighting Guide.

They also list bulbs you should NOT buy because they have failed the new 2008 standards for mercury content. These bulbs were still on the market until July 1, 2009 to give manufacturers a chance to clear their inventories due to the world financial crisis. They are listed on their Buyer Beware page.

There is also a handy Savings Calculator page where you can calculate your energy savings based on the number of incandescent bulbs you plan to change for CFLs, as well as a comparison chart comparing savings with halogen, CFLs, and LEDs compared to incandescent.

“Energy Star labels can be found on the most efficient, safest bulbs available, as well as on some of the worst, misleading the consumer and giving manufacturers zero incentive to make a greener bulb,” said EWG Senior Analyst Sean Gray. “The Obama administration needs to reinvigorate the Energy Star program to drive innovation in safety and efficiency of home and business lighting.”

You can do your part to push for the lowest possible mercury content in CFLs by signing on to EWG's Tell Energy Star: lower the mercury content in CFLs page to send a message that you join them in their concern about the dangers of mercury in your home.

Just remember that, while mercury in CFLs is a concern, the exponentially greater mercury pollution spewed from coal-fired power plants to generate the electricity to run an incandescent bulb is the reason you should be running to buy low mercury CFLs. Energy Star calculates that each (Energy Star rated) CFL generates 70 percent less mercury pollution than a comparable incandescent bulb.

EWG also has a handy When a Bulb Breaks page detailing the steps you should take if you do happen to break a CFL bulb in your home. Be sure to bookmark it - just in case.

CFLs that made the list to date:

Earth-Mate Mini Size Bulbs

Litetronics Neolite

Sylvania Micro-Mini Twist

Sylvania DURA-ONE

Feit Ecobulb This product line has a full range of shapes - ALL of which are low mercury CFLs. You can even replace your Halogen PAR lamps with their products!

MaxLite Again, a full range of shapes in this product line.

Philips with Alto

Peggy

Cabinet Basics for Newbies at Segale

2009-08-18T15:59:00.000-07:00

I received this notice today and thought I would pass it on here. I have known Don Segale since he had a small shop with four employees in San Bruno back in the early '80s. He is one of the most reputable people in the industry and builds a quality cabinet with a catalyzed varnish finish.

If you are in the market for local custom cabinetry, Don is your man.

Peggy

At Segale Bros. we will be trying something new based on an idea from the NKBA meeting a few months back at Standards Of Excellence in San Rafael.

We will be holding our first Consumer seminar.

This seminar is meant for homeowners and end-users with no knowledge of cabinetry. This is not meant as a sales opportunity, but as a tool for people to feel more comfortable with cabinet planning and terminology. As you can all probably agree, most homeowners are clueless when it comes to cabinets, and then get overwhelmed when the education begins. We would like to "soften the blow" by starting off with the fundamentals.

Please help us by passing the word along. If you or anyone has specific questions feel free to contact me directly:

david@segalebros.com / 650-784-5202 mobile

Here is the information:

Segale Bros. Consumer Seminar

Please attend our first Consumer seminar entitled: "CABINET FUNDAMENTALS" on Saturday August 29th from 11:00am to 1:00pm in our showroom in Hayward. The seminar will be an overview of cabinets, including construction types, materials (including "green" options), accessories, case work and cabinet doors.

This seminar would be good for anyone planning to remodel a kitchen or is planning any major cabinetry project.

We will serve light refreshments.

Attendance is open to the general public, but reservations are required.

We are located at 1705 Sabre Street (@ Corsair) near the Hayward airport, Highway 92 and Highway 880.

Please phone 1-800-286-2915 to reserve your place.

Segale Bros. has been in business since 1976, and has been at the forefront of the cabinet industry for decades. We offer custom cabinets, cabinet refacing, closet and garage systems and home offices. We also represent two factory lines of cabinets: Medallion and Columbia.

Please visit www.segalebros.com for more information.

Q & A on Becoming a Designer (Kitchen or Otherwise)

2009-08-02T22:36:00.000-07:00

Below is an email I received from Yahoo Answers where I sometimes lurk and post answers:

At 10:01 PM 7/23/2009, you wrote:
Subject: Interior Design Complications

Q.
Message: Hi my name is Savannah. I was looking up some answers to interior design when i came across yours and you said you were a designer of some sort. I would like some advice if that's OK.

I'm 18. I live in Sacramento, and I really want to become a interior designer. But it seems like what I want to do more is be an interior decorator. I'm not sure what the difference is.

Also I am enrolled at American River College for the fall and trying to get into the Art Institute of Sacramento, but there are some things I hear about private schools that get me confused on what I should do?

Should I go to AI and take the courses for my major which are hands on but pay back around 60 to maybe 70 thousand dollars; or go to community college for two years then transfer to a UC?

Also is being a interior designer a family oriented job? I really want to have a family and also have a good job (interior design) but I don't want to live that life where you move because your job demands it.

I am really stumped at the moment and kind of freaking out because I originally wanted my college plan all laid out before I started, you know? I sense you're in the same area of interest that I want to be in. I could really use your advice.

Sorry for the long message. If you can give me any direction I will really appreciate it

Savannah

Hi Savannah,

I'm a Certified Kitchen Designer.
I have been in "the business" for 26 years, but never really went to college to learn my craft. Would you believe I actually went to college to become a nurse?

When I started working in kitchen and bath design there really weren't any schools teaching the discipline. I learned on the job.

As a certified designer (by the National Kitchen & Bath Association - NKBA), I am required to take a defined number of hours of continuing education courses annually to maintain my certification. It is necessary to educate and re-educate myself just to keep up with the many changes in my industry.

Nowadays, most new interior designers DO go to college to learn the basics of design and how it is documented and governed by the cities, counties and states we work in.

There is a lot to learn:

Professional interior design encompasses furnishings and fittings in commercial buildings, like office buildings and hotels. The American Society of Interior Designers (ASID) pretty much sets the standards for commercial interior design with their NCIDQ examinations. Designers who pass those (very difficult) exams get to use the designation ASID or FASID after their names. Students who wish to become commercial interior designers really must go to college to learn what they need to know to specify furnishings and carpeting, etc., that will pass fire and egress codes in commercial buildings.

Kitchen and bath designers are also interior designers. We work on mostly residential structures. We also design in commercial buildings when we do residential condos in high rise building, for instance. As a result we need to know a great deal about the building codes that apply to each kind of project we do.

There are other sub-specialties in interior design: Such as lighting designers, who must keep up with a very fast moving specialty.

Interior decorators usually design furniture, window coverings, paint and wallpaper, in residential settings. They do not usually get involved with structural changes to homes, although some do. They may have attended to a four year college or a community college. Or they can just hang a shingle, if homeowners are willing to pay for their talent.

There are no legal or educational requirements for calling oneself an interior decorator or and interior designer in the State of California. There is a certification program for interior designers in California that is administered by the California Council for Interior Design Certification (CCIDC). I am also certified by them as a Certified Interior Designer.

Most of us designers have families.

I suggest that you do some research to learn more about the various specialties and where you might fit best and what education you need. Talking to career counselors at the various colleges is good. Calling people who advertise in your local Yellow Pages or interiors magazines as interior designers and/or decorators might give you some insight. Ask if you might be permitted to drop by their offices or even "shadow" them for a day. I have allowed students to "shadow" me and they always thank me for the experience. Go to an ASID meeting. You'll have to pay to get in but the experience could tell you if you want to go in that direction. Same way for an NKBA meeting.

Good luck with your career Savannah.

Peggy

Does the Affordable Kitchen Trump the Sustainable Kitchen?

2009-08-02T21:48:00.000-07:00

I received this question today from NKBA (the National Kitchen & Bath Association):

In this economy, does sustainability need to give way to affordability?

I think there is a reason that, beyond all the "greenwashing" going on by manufacturers and their ad companies, green is so hot.

Americans are looking at the changes in the weather and the predictions by climate scientists. They are listening to our new president who emphasizes global warming and our predicament every chance he gets. They are assessing the excesses of the past and making plans to do better in the future.

Those of us who still have financial resources and secure jobs in the wake of our financial crisis would like to help in putting the country back to work in ways that we can control.

One of those ways is by greening our homes. Remodeling for energy efficiency is smart remodeling because the payback grows every time the cost of energy increases. Making our drafty and inefficient homes more comfortable is a welcome bonus too.

There is great potential that government incentives will also flow to those who remodel for energy efficiency. I think that will grow. I don't see the logic in similar incentives for kitchen remodeling, other than appliance rebates.

Back to NKBA's question: I think that kitchen remodeling will give way to remodeling for energy efficiency. Kitchen remodeling dollars will shrink, but green remodeling dollars will grow - a lot. Kitchens will still be done, but I predict that the excessive kitchens of the last years are a thing of the past. Kitchens to come will be simpler, less ostentatious, and less expensive. They will have sustainable features, and quite likely be powered by solar on the roof!

Peggy

Support This Proposed Legislation

2009-07-22T14:54:00.000-07:00

Here's some proposed legislation I just heard about that would make enormous strides toward repairing the broken remodeling sector.

It's called the
Home Improvements Revitalize the Economy (HIRE) Act

About the Legislation

In bipartisan legislation, congressmen Henry Johnson (D-GA) and Nathan Deal (R-GA) are sponsoring the Home Improvements Revitalize the Economy (HIRE) Act to provide tax deductions and credits designed to stimulate the purchase of kitchen cabinets and other remodeling and home furnishing improvements. The products would have to be installed in the taxpayer's primary residence, and the credits would apply to existing homes, not new construction.

Cocooning homeowners saved the nation from the recession we are enduring right now after the Dot-Com Bust and 9/11. You can do the same again by making your homes more energy efficient and providing paychecks for a big industry.

Widespread spending on home improvement is a real economy booster.

This proposed legislation may be just the ticket to break the logjam and get our economy moving again now that we know we're not over the cliff.

I suggest you contact your Congressperson today and voice your support for this bill.

Peggy

Comments on Green (Kitchen) Remodeling

2009-07-09T18:36:00.000-07:00

Here in the San Francisco Bay Area we do a lot more remodeling of existing homes than building new ones. This is because we are "built-out" in cities and suburbs that line the Bay. Remaining building lots in these areas are few and far between and usually on steep slopes requiring expensive engineering to build a house.

Developers pounce eagerly on flat sites such as the closed Alameda Naval Air Station, or Hunter's Point shipyard in San Francisco; even though toxic cleanup is required, because homes in the immediate Bay Area bring such premium prices. That's not going to change no matter what happens with the economy.

Extensive remodeling of existing homes has been going on here since the 80's, and I'm sure it will continue into the foreseeable future.

Some people actually buy obsolete homes in desirable areas (for millions of dollars) and tear them down to build a dream home.

What does this have to do with "green remodeling" you say? Well, a lot.

Green building is really a lot easier than green remodeling because you start with nothing when you build. So building with green materials and methods will result in a green home. How green depends on the materials and methods, but green.

When you remodel, you are starting with a structure that is obsolete. And in many cases, the remodel will only target part of the structure - for instance, the kitchen. So, even though you might choose bamboo cabinetry, cork flooring, Energy Star appliances, and all the other accouterments of a truly green kitchen; your green kitchen will still be mired in a not-so-green house.

What to do?

I suggest starting your planning for a remodel, any remodel of your obsolete home, with an Energy Audit and report.

This excerpt is from Green Building Advisor's page on Green Remodeling Projects

"An Energy Audit includes inspections and tests to assess moisture flow, combustion safety, thermal comfort, indoor air quality, and durability.

An energy audit becomes a roadmap for smart repairs and helps organize improvements into sensible order. When renovations are to take place in stages, as the budget allows, an energy audit ensures the most pressing problems are taken care of first."

Never before has the technology or knowledge been available to assess your home as a "system". It's here now.

My husband and I recently contracted with Recurve (formerly Sustainable Spaces), of San Francisco, for an Energy Audit.

We were planning to replace our furnace and attic ductwork. So it seemed to be a logical move. But I highly recommend an Energy Audit before undertaking ANY remodeling work on your home, because the roadmap that the report provides should be incorporated in everything you do on your house from now forward.

In our case, Recurve gave us a very different picture than the furnace guys who gave us estimates a couple of years ago. Our new furnace is quite a bit smaller than the ones they were quoting, and our ductwork is different too. Yet we are far more comfortable than we have ever been in our home. That's because our Energy Audit told us that our home needed some major sealing attention, and we did that as part of the furnace and ductwork project.

No more drafts! And in chilly foggy South San Francisco, that's AMAZING!

Recurve also suggested our Metlund Hot Water D'MAND System. A product of which I was entirely unaware. I LOVE it and it saves a whole lot of water. I will also specify it for all of my clients henceforth. I gush about it in a previous post.

With an Energy Audit in hand you will be prepared to make your home truly green over a period of years, with every remodel you undertake.

You will also be cutting your impact on the environment in manageable steps.

It is so worth the small cost.

Do it today.

To see some green remodels on the Green Building Advisor site click here.

For a view on "Five Things You Can Do Right Now to Cut Your Utility Bill", as well as a treatise on "greenwashing", from Matt Golden, President of Recurve and a member of the advisory team at Green Building Advisor, click here.

Peggy

Cherry Cabinets Worth Recycling

2009-07-06T15:20:00.000-07:00

The Re-Use People just sent out their monthly newsletter and there are some nice cherry cabinets up for grabs at their San Leandro warehouse. There's even a 48" built-in fridge with panels! Must have been a BIG kitchen...Wonder if they changed it out because the fridge panels wouldn't fit?

Here's an image:

The Oakland warehouse has received several large sets of handsome kitchen cabinets.

Location and Contact Information

TRP Retail-Warehouse
9235 San Leandro Street
Oakland, CA 94603
(510) 383-1983; toll-free 888-588-9490
Hours: Mon through Fri 10:00 to 6:00; Sat and Sun 10:00 to 4:00

Peggy

A Note About Paneled Appliances

2009-07-05T19:50:00.000-07:00

Kathy Passarette, over at Creative Home Expressions,
has a beautiful post with lots of great images of refrigerators blended into the cabinetry, mirrored, made to look like armoires, etc.

One thing to note about paneled appliances, typically dishwashers and refrigerators, is that eventually you will have to replace the appliance.

We HAD a paneled refrigerator until it died and we had to buy a new one.

Even though we bought the same make, size and configuration refrigerator, the panels would not fit and could not be re-used. A $1000 investment, useless and in the trash.

I LOVED those panels too >:-C

I actually kept them in the garage for months before I would let my husband dispose of them...And we are not keepers of "stuff".

Our cabinetry is stained wood. Perfectly matching old stained wood is difficult if not impossible. In a kitchen it has been exposed to all those vapors and such for years.

The cabinet company was no longer in business.

For all of the above, we now have an un-paneled refrigerator.

Imagine if it was and armoire investment...With TASSELS no less.

A further note:

Refrigerators have been growing in height ever since I became a kitchen designer.

Back in the '80's they were no more than 69" high. Nowadays more like 72" high.

Sub-Zero is the only company that still makes their refrigerators the same height as in the '80's - 84" high.

That means the "built-in look" your designer so carefully tried to achieve with the cabinet over the top coming right down to the top of the fridge, won't allow you to install a new fridge without replacing that upper cabinet.

I learned my lesson on this issue years ago and started specifying a space above, with a removable valance to close the gap that could be easily trimmed.

In spite of what you are thinking about the longevity of your appliances when you plan your new kitchen; they are never going to last forever.

What a shame to have to tear out a perfectly good kitchen just to replace your armoire...oops - fridge. Kinda shows where we are as a society. Doesn't it?

Peggy

Q&A Where Can I Find Someone To Help Us Design A Kitchen And Bathroom?

2009-07-05T16:08:00.000-07:00

Q.

We bought a cottage type place that has no kitchen in it at all and a bath with just a toilet and shower, we are having trouble figuring out what to do that would look good.

Is there a virtual site that we can go to or someone that can design something that won't cost a fortune for them to plan something?

A.

You need a kitchen and bath designer with demonstrated talent and experience in space-planning.

The fact that there is no kitchen at all, also means that you will have to bring electrical and possibly gas to the area. That means services that are (likely) not in the house will need to be brought there.

Depending upon where you are located, there may also be requirements and codes that need to be met to install a kitchen.

The fact is: In some locales, you may even need an architect to plan your new kitchen.

I suggest the first thing to do is to go to your local building department with jurisdiction, explain your situation, and ask them what they require (They won't follow you home. Don't worry).

I'm afraid we designers don't come cheap, let alone free. But you will find that the right designer will save you far more than you spend on the design portion of your project. There are scores of products that go into every kitchen and bath. Saving money on each of them saves a lot. Designers know what works and what doesn't, what's a waste of money and a bargain.

There is nothing more costly than doing a project and finding that you hate it so much that you have to do it again.

Cost from my office: = Around $1000-1800 for a bare bones concept to take to IKEA, if you wish; up to $3-5000 for complete documents to submit for building permits.

Some charge more or less. I can only say what my fees usually are, and these are generalities since I charge by the hour.

A designer never knows how decisive a given client is going to be going in. A client who is very clear about what they like and don't like, and very decisive, is very likely to spend less on design services that a client who waffles and wavers about every decision and has to feel their way or see something before they know what they like.

The latter client will be just as happy with the results, but take a lot longer getting there and thus spend more money.

Peggy

Great New Kitchen Design Blog - Useful Spaces

2009-07-03T13:44:00.000-07:00

I just discovered a great new blog (new to me) by Canadian kitchen designer Arne Salvesen, CKD.

He joins just a very few male kitchen and bath design bloggers. Most of us are of the female persuasion.

Arne has a lot of good posts already up since his launch in March 2009. I especially love his spelling of "colourful" and "centre".

Check him out at Useful Spaces. Welcome Arne!

I was especially taken by his post The "B" Word, about budgeting for your kitchen remodel.

This is a sore subject among kitchen and bath dealers and their clients - The dealers need to have a budget figure to design an appropriately priced project and the clients often like to keep the information close to the vest to avoid spending more than they want.

As an independent designer who represents and works only in the client's interest, I have found it quite remarkable how differently my clients react when I ask the "B" question. They are almost always very forthcoming about their budgets. It is one aspect of the transition I made in 1996, when I closed my showroom, that has made my task as a designer soooo much easier.

The remarkable thing is: I don't do anything any differently than I did before. I just stopped selling product to my clients. The difference is that they no longer SEE me as a salesperson.

Peggy

Casting Home Renovation Show

2009-07-02T19:15:00.000-07:00

I ran across this notice on another forum and thought it might be of interest to some poor Do-It-Your-Selfer out there.

Peggy

CASTING NEW SHOW

The production company that brought you Wife Swap is currently casting unique families with plenty of personality to take part in a new show. We are looking for families who are in a Do-It Yourself Home Nightmare! Did your husband or wife start a Do-It-Yourself project on your home and now it’s impossible to live in? We are looking for families in the California area who are in need of professional help. The worse, the better…pipes leaking, walls exposed, ceiling crumbling, only living out of half of your house, etc, etc.
If you are a family with at least one child over the age of 5 living at home and you are in a Do-It-Yourself Home Nightmare, contact us to be a part of this groundbreaking show!

To apply or get information about the show
Please contact:
Sunny Foscue (Casting Producer)
Call: 310-309-3945
Email: sunnyhomeshow@gmail.com AND sunny.foscue@rdfusa.com

Extravagant LED Lighting

2009-06-25T16:39:00.000-07:00

I have seen these new Mini iLume™ Flush Mount LED fixtures in a couple of applications and been intrigued at their possibilities.

Apparently I'm not the only kitchen and bath designer to be interested. Here's an image of a kitchen backsplash from their web site:

I recently attended a seminar by a wonderful lighting designer who presented new thinking (for me) about how we approach interior lighting.

She showed, in a series of slides, how we designers can make lighting more interesting and engaging in a space.

She used prisms to catch sunlight and throw rainbows onto walls and furnishings, creating a new kind of decorative lighting that used to be only accidental.

She used different colored light sources to create "warm" or "cool" areas in a room.

I was fascinated.

LED lighting presents us with opportunities for such lighting because it can be so small and unobtrusive.

What an exciting time to be a designer with such tools.

Peggy

Addendum:

I was just browsing my friend Kit Golson's blog, Chic Provence, and ran across this post on artist Rudolf Stingel's work.

I have stolen this image to illustrate. Thanks Kit!

Would you believe the walls in this room are white?

This is the incredible power of light and color used to create art. But it also illustrates how light bouncing off colored surfaces can change the colors in a room, subtly or dramatically, depending on the light intensity and colors being reflected.

Question? Do you know what color the walls would appear to be if they were painted navy blue with the same orange carpeting and lighting?

I'm in HOT WATER!

2009-06-09T14:09:00.000-07:00

As part of an energy upgrade to our home, which is winding up today; our energy auditor and contractor, Recurve (formerly Sustainable Spaces), recommended we install an Advanced Conservation Technologies Metlund D'MAND Hot Water System.

I had never heard of it, but was intrigued when they explained to me how it worked.

What it does is pump hot water from the hot water heater, through the supply line and bridges back to the cold water line until the water comes up to a preset temperature.

We have been living with the Metlund for a few days now and I am really excited about this product.

We push the button and it runs for a few minutes and then shuts down. Because it is installed in the bathroom farthest from the hot water heater, ALL of the faucets in the house are then ready to be turned on and immediately produce hot water.

We are using it several times a day.

This is so cool.
Recurve estimates that we will save 5000 gallons of water a year that would have gone down the drain waiting for the water to get hot (No more guilt when I water my bonsai).

Recurve estimates our payback will be two years. A person handy with plumbing (not me) could easily do the installation themselves and get a quicker payback. In fact, I can't imagine why anyone would not want to install this system!

Ours is installed in our crawl space under the house. I highly recommend this option if you have the supply lines and electrical connection available, or easy to achieve, there. The system is definitely utilitarian in appearance, so hiding it away is the best option.

Here's an installation video on YouTube:

P.S. For you Buy-It-Yourselfers: Take the POLL in the right sidebar at the Metlund web site and you get $50 off your purchase.

Peggy

An addendum:
Recurve has now given us two remote controls for the Metlund.

We keep one in the kitchen and the other in our second bath.

No more running back to the other bath to push the button to get hot water in the other locations.

This is GREAT!

Re: 7 Reasons to Hire A Kitchen Designer

2009-06-01T09:56:00.000-07:00

The Kohler web site has a good article detailing the 7 Reasons to Hire A Kitchen Designer. This advice applies to baths too.

In the Industry today we have seen a dramatic drop off in work coming into design offices and showrooms over the past year and a half.

Consumers are buying houses that have been poorly maintained, or even trashed and repossessed by lenders, yet they are not going the established route of working with a designer. Instead they seem to be going it alone in making decisions about how to repair the damage and renovate their newly purchased homes.

I have said more than once recently, that the situation reminds me of the '70's, when Do-It-Yourself (DIY) was the way most people planned and renovated. I started out as a Do-It-Yourselfer back in the '70's, so I know whereof I speak. From what I have seen of the quality of most '70's renovations over the intervening years, they would have been better off doing NOTHING!

Correcting the poor decisions of the '70's Do-It-Yourselfers has kept the kitchen and bath design industry growing ever since! I can't stress this point enough. It is very important for the current DIY consumer to realize this fact, because YOU live with your decisions and your mistakes; and when you decide to sell your home, for whatever reason, YOU will pay the price in less appreciation and saleability.

Kitchen and bath designers are trained to maximize efficiency and storage. We are also trained to bring a project in within budget.

Kitchen and bath designers SAVE far more than we cost our clients.

So, if you are cruising the Web today, looking for ideas for your own kitchen or bathroom renovation, with the thought of saving on design and Doing-It-Yourself. I strongly suggest that you ask yourself these questions:

1. What are the requirements in my community for submission of plans for renovation?

2. Am I up to the task of creating the required documents? Such documents require electrical and mechanical elements. Am I prepared to learn what I need to know about electrical, lighting, and mechanical documentation? (Here in California we have community and State mandates to upgrade inadequate electrical service, plus Title 24, to take into account).

3. If so, am I willing to spend the time to learn enough to design my own kitchen or bath and be satisfied with the results?

4. Does the kitchen or bath lend itself to easy decision making? In other words: Do I already like the way it is designed? The traffic flow? The space for storage? The area for countertops? The amount of light? If not, see Question 3.

5. Am I willing to spend the time to research each of the myriad products I will have to contemplate to complete my new kitchen? Do I know WHAT THEY ARE? Do I know WHERE TO LOOK FOR THEM? CAN I DISCERN RELATIVE QUALITY BETWEEN LIKE PRODUCTS?

Kitchen and bath dealers represent certain products because the manufacturers offer elements important to the dealer. Such as: price; quality; reliability of delivery; little or no damage on delivery; etc.

Many of these elements important to the dealer are invisible to the consumer. When the dealer is not there to filter choices down to the reliable products only - BUYER BEWARE.

The least expensive products on the market in every category are the products reputable dealers shun as problematic.

Believe me, all kitchen and bath dealers would love to be able to sell a great product cheap or more profitably. It doesn't happen because manufacturers of great products value and sell them accordingly.

6. Am I going to hire a contractor to renovate and install the products I buy? Or am I going to do the work myself?

7. If I plan to do the work myself, do I know how to do it well? If not, am I willing to spend the time to learn how?

As I said above: We kitchen and bath designers have spent the last forty years correcting the mistakes of the '70's Do-IT-Yourselfers. Do you really want to start that cycle all over again?

We have learned so much about designing great kitchens and baths in the interim. Why not give us a shot at helping with yours?

Peggy